One way to explore Lisbon is to tour the city and stop, admire the monuments and alongside savour and taste Portuguese cuisine. It’s a great way to have a sensory adventure as you see, taste, smell, hear and touch everything that is distinctly Portuguese. It’s a guilt-free way to taste sumptuous treats and not worry about adding inches to your waist. All that walking is sure to burn all the extra calories you will consume when indulging in local delicacies. From an array of assorted tapas/ starters to the custard-filled tarts to shots of delicious cherry liquor and cod delicacies, you will discover a lot on a food trail in Lisbon. While in Lisbon, we went on a gastronomical tour of Lisbon by tuk-tuk. Read on to learn more about our experience and what to eat in Lisbon.
All set for a food trail in Lisbon
I land in Lisbon for the President’s Club of my husband Rafiq’s company. It is around 9:30 am as I rush to the hotel and join the group for the food trail in Lisbon after a quick check-in. We find ourselves in groups of 4-5 as we hop onto an electric tuk-tuk. The plan is to wander around the Graca, the highest point in Lisbon, Baixa historical district and uncover Lisbon’s culture and cuisine. We would stop at several locations for tastings, explore the rich culture and learn from one of the local guides.
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Our guide, a chirpy and bubbly middle-aged lady Loren. She excitedly introduces herself and welcomes us as we begin our food trail. Our tuk-tuk passes through the winding streets of Graca neighbourhood as we go uphill to our first stop. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is a viewing point that offers a sweeping view of northern, southern, and western Lisbon. A blue tile painting depicts the sites of Lisbon.
Our guide points to the various landmarks of Lisbon that can be spotted from the viewpoint. We see the São Jorge Castle, Tagus River, 25 de Abril bridge akin to San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, Cristo Rei that resembles the Christ the Redeemer statue of Brazil, Alfama and Baixa districts and the trademark orange rooftops of Lisbon houses.
‘Love locks’ are on the railings, a symbolic gesture typically associated with romantic relationships. Couples write their names or initials on a padlock, attach it to a public structure like a bridge or a viewpoint railing, and then throw away the key as a symbol of their enduring love and commitment.
The Chapel of Our Lady of the Mount (Capela de Nossa Senhora do Monte) is adjacent to the viewpoint. Locals are selling jewellery made with blue ceramics and cork for a couple of Euros.
Praça da Figueira
We admire the city’s beauty, capture memorable photographs, and hop onto the tuk-tuks that take us to Praça da Figueira, a large square in the heart of Lisbon. Originally, it was the location of the Hospital of All Saints that was destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake. At the centre of Praça da Figueira stands a bronze equestrian statue of King John I, who ruled Portugal in the 14th and 15th centuries. Impressive buildings, including hotels, shops, and historic structures, surround Praça da Figueira. From here on, we will walk and stop at several locations for tastings.
Savouring Wine and Cheese
We head to Fado and Wine, where a wine and cheese tasting experience awaits us. Guided by a sommelier, our colleagues try a selection of red, white and rose wines. The sommelier emphasizes how environmental factors such as soil, climate influence the flavours of both wines and cheeses. Since I am a ‘teetotaller’, I delve into some delicious goat and cow milk cheese, bread, potato wafers and olives.
Santa Justa Lift /Elevador de Santa Justa
Close to the Fado and Wine Outlet is the Santa Justa Lift/ Elevador de Santa Justa, an iconic wrought-iron elevator. Since Lisbon is spread over hills, this elevator connects the lower streets of Baixa to the higher Carmo Square.
Rua Augusta
We next head to Manteigaria, a renowned pastel de nata factory located in Rua Augusta in the Baixa district. The Rua Augusta is a vibrant pedestrian street dotted with charming cafes, restaurants, and pastry shops. Here visitors enjoy delicious Portuguese cuisine, pastries, and coffee while soaking up the lively atmosphere. We can see the iconic Manteigaria, a majestic triumphal arch and the statue of José I, mounted on his horse Gentil. The Arco da Rua Augusta opens on the other end to Praça do Comércio/Commerce Square. (We visited it a couple of days later. You can read about it here.)
A local sells replica bags and purses of high-end brands on the street. There is a buzz as locals and tourists are eating, shopping, and admiring the attractions on the street. We enter Manteigaria, crowded with tourists and locals trying to grab a bite of the signature custard tarts sold here.
The origin of Pastéis de nata/ Custard Tarts
Pastéis de nata, also known as Portuguese custard tarts, are one of Portugal’s most iconic desserts. Our guide narrates the story behind the genesis of these custard tarts. These delicious tarts have a rich history dating back to the 18th century. They are believed to have been created by Catholic monks at the Jerónimos Monastery in the Belém district of Lisbon. The monks used egg whites to starch their clothes, producing a surplus of egg yolks. To avoid waste, they used the leftover egg yolks to make custard tarts, which they sold to support the monastery. Over time, the recipe for pastéis de nata spread beyond the monastery walls. Soon they became a beloved treat enjoyed by people throughout Portugal and beyond. Today, pastéis de nata a symbol of Portuguese cuisine and culture, can be found in pastry shops throughout the country.
Making and Tasting of Custard Tarts
We enter the factory and, through glass partitions, watch the making of the tarts. A chef rolls the dough, and another chef pours yellow, creamy custard in tart shells while a third puts the trays of filled tarts in the oven. The recipe for the tarts is a closely guarded secret. Just then, our guide brings us platefuls of the custard tarts to taste. We grab a piece of these sinful temptations. One bite of the crisp, flaky tarts releases some smooth, rich, sweet custard in our mouth that tastes simply divine.
After that sweet treat, we next head to a restaurant to try some Portuguese tapas/ starters. We are served platefuls of assorted starters on our table. Here are some that were up for grabs.
Pastéis de Bacalhau/ Cod Fish Cakes
These are codfish cakes made with salted cod (bacalhau), potatoes, eggs, and parsley. They are deep-fried until golden brown and crispy on the outside, with a savoury and creamy interior.
Rissóis de Camarão/ Shrimp Rissoles
These are made by combining cooked shrimp with onions, garlic, and béchamel sauce. They are shaped into half-moon parcels, breaded, and fried until golden brown.
Croquettes
The small cylindrical croquettes are made from a mixture of minced meat or potato, seasoned with herbs and spices. The croquettes are coated in breadcrumbs before being fried until golden and crispy.
Bifana/ Portuguese Pork Sandwich
It is a flavourful and popular street food in Lisbon. It consists of thinly sliced marinated pork, typically seasoned with garlic, paprika, and white wine, sandwiched between a Portuguese bun.
Prego/ Beef Sandwich
These, too, are sandwiches, but instead of pork, beef is the preferred meat. Tender slices of beef steak, marinated in olive oil, and spices, grilled to perfection, are served in a crusty bread roll/ bun.
Salada de Polvo/ Octopus Salad
It features tender pieces of cooked octopus, typically marinated in a tangy dressing made with olive oil, vinegar, garlic, onions, and fresh herbs such as parsley or cilantro.
I have a confession to make. Despite being a globe trotter and a nutritionist, trying unknown dishes with new flavours and ingredients is daunting. I still haven’t mustered the courage to try unfamiliar dishes and satisfy myself with safer and familiar foods. Our guide gets me some vegetable croquettes, and I am more than happy to have three of them. Our colleagues enjoy the starters, which are a tad too many. The guide says that the untouched dishes will be given to the homeless. Food wastage is not something most of us favour, especially since so many people sleep hungry each night.
Praça Dom Pedro IV /Rossio Square
With our stomachs full, we walk to Praça Dom Pedro IV /Rossio Square, a vibrant and iconic landmark in Lisbon. The square is adorned with intricate mosaic cobblestones that create an optical illusion of waves. The square serves as a central gathering place, hosting events, festivals, and markets. We see two fountains at either end and a column monument of King Pedro IV in the centre. The square is surrounded by notable landmarks such as the National Theatre D. Maria II and the Rossio Railway Station. (The train to Sintra goes from this station.) Lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops, Rossio Square is a bustling hub as locals and tourists relax, dine, and soak in the lively atmosphere. Close to the National Theatre D. Maria II is the Church of São Domingos that has endured fires and earthquakes.
Ginjinha
Next, we head to our last tasting stop to have shots of Ginjinha, a delicious cherry liquor made from sour cherries (ginja berries), sugar, and aguardente (a type of brandy). Ginjinha is typically served in small cups or chocolate cups, often with a cherry at the bottom of the glass. Two popular shops that sell Ginjinah are A Ginjinha Espinheira and Ginjinha Sem Rival, informs our guide. The latter was opened by a guy who worked at A Ginjinha Espinheria and fell in love with the owner’s daughter. When the owner learned about the affair, he fired the employee. In revenge he set up Ginjinha Sem Rival just across the street.
Our guide brings glasses of Ginjinha with the cherry at the bottom. It is often enjoyed as a digestive after meals or warming drink during colder months. She then points to the bottles of Eduardinho, another famous drink with a picture of a clown and narrates a story.
The Story of Eduardino
Legend has it that the famous Italian clown Eduardino, who once performed at the Coliseu (Lisbon Coliseum), had a peculiar ritual whenever he visited Lisbon. He would head to Ginjinha Sem Rival, but instead of ordering a conventional drink, he would concoct a cocktail, mixing various liqueurs. Down it went in one gulp, and then he’d return to the stage, spreading joy and laughter. The liquor shop, honouring the clown’s memory, still offers the same eclectic mix under the name “Eduardino.” It is a sweet and delightful liqueur that some still prefer over Ginjinha.
Our food trail in Lisbon has come to an end. We are delighted to not just have savoured Portugal’s delicacies but also as to have got a glimpse of the historic city. In less than three hours we have learnt so much about Lisbon, its heritage, cuisine, people and so on. Let us know which dish you would like to taste while in Lisbon.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Humberto Delgado Airport is the international airport of Lisbon, Portugal. From India, there are no direct flights to Lisbon. I flew from Mumbai to Abu Dhabi and then took a flight to Lisbon. My husband flew in directly from Toronto to Lisbon.
Where to Stay: We stayed at Hotel Tivoli Avenida Liberdade for the first four days. For the next four days we stayed at an apartment in Rua das de Santo Antao by Marriott Bonvoy. There are lots of options available depending on budget and comfort.
Travel Tip: Where comfortable shoes as there will be considerable walking involved.
Other Lisbon, Portugal Blogs on ‘So Many Travel Tales’
Exploring Lisbon
Exploring Belem, Portugal
Exploring Sintra Portugal – A Fairyland
Exploring the National Palace of Mafra, Portugal
Shopping in Lisbon