Pushkar, in Rajasthan state of India, is known worldwide for its camel fair held in November every year on Kartika Purnima after Diwali. Another reason why Pushkar is well known is because it has the world’s only Brahma Temple. It is also a place for pilgrimage for Hindus and Sikhs. The Israelites love Pushkar and have a Chabad house here. Pushkar is an amalgamation of a rural rustic town with traditional temples on one end and on the other end has scores of foreign tourists flocking to its cafes and shops that sell bohemian fashion. This fusion makes Pushkar unique compared to other popular destinations in Rajasthan. Read on to know how we went about exploring Pushkar.
Pushkar Fair Ground
After visiting Jaipur, it is now time for us to visit Pushkar. Our driver, Puriji from Rajasthan Routes and Trails, tells us it’s a three-hour drive. As we near Pushkar, he takes us first to the ground where the annual Pushkar Fair is held. The ground has some camels and small tents put up. The access is not easy as the adjoining road work is going on perhaps preparing for the mela. Our time of visit is September, but the week-long Pushkar Fair takes place in November.
A Cultural Extravaganza
Numerous foreign tourists flock to Pushkar at the time of the fair to see how livestock like cattle, camels and horses are traded. The mela is a cultural and entertainment extravaganza where an array of competitions and races are organised. The longest moustache, bodybuilding, wrestling, kabbadi to name a few. Races, folk dances, music and puppet shows take centre stage. The prices of products go up almost three to four times and getting accommodation can be challenging.
Pushkar Lake
We then stroll through the market and see the Pushkar Lake. The lake is the epicentre of Pushkar, with the entire town surrounding its periphery. The lake even finds mention in Ramayan and Mahabharat and on coins as far back as the 4th century. The 52 ghats and more than 400 temples surrounding the lake make it a pilgrimage site. The faithful take a dip in the lake for moksha, or salvation from all sins. It is often termed “Tirtha-Raj” – ‘the king of pilgrimage sites related to water bodies.’ We see sadhus and holy men at the various ghats performing religious rituals.
Ghats
There are vendors selling marigolds, roses, and religious items. The Gau or Gandhi Ghat is where the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi, Indira Gandhi and several others have been immersed. The Varaha Ghat is so named, as Lord Vishnu appeared here in the Varaha or boar avatar. Arti is performed at the ghats in the evenings; you may want to be part of these.
Varaha Temple
It is nearing evening, and we decide to grab a quick sandwich and proceed to check in to our hotel. We head to where the car is parked. On the way, we spot the Varaha Temple, dedicated to the boar avatar of Vishnu. We ascend a flight of stairs which take us to a brightly covered red doorway. We find ourselves inside a courtyard which is deserted and are the only tourists here. There are some houses of locals on the periphery of the courtyard. On a plinth is the temple, the inner sanctum of which has an idol of lord Vishnu in the Varaha or Boar avatar. Legend has it that Lord Shiva, in the boar form, descended on earth to slay the demon Hirnayasksh. Another version is that Lord Varaha defended Lord Brahma from demons during his yagna.
Check-in at the Hotel
We head to our car after exploring the temple. A short 20-minute drive takes us to Westin Pushkar. We check into our tastefully done-up suite. After freshening up, we head to the lobby and meet the general manager, who tells us what we must do in Pushkar. Ms Urmila Sharma – Guest Relations Manager was kind and shares the contacts of the guide who will show us around Pushkar the next day and another connection for Ajmer. We munch on some delicious snacks and listen to soulful numbers sung by a band.
After a good night’s sleep, we go on a camel cart ride in the resort the following day. After breakfast, we check out and head to the town, where we meet our guide, Kaushal Parashar. He is a learned pandit who takes us around, explaining the history and spiritual aspects of the various holy temples of Pushkar.
Sri Ranganatha Venugopal Temple or Old Rangji Temple
We enter the courtyard, plop off our shoes, and admire the temple’s beautiful architecture. It is a fusion of Rajasthani, Mughal and South Indian styles with a prominent high gopuram one usually sees in the temples of southern India. The priests from the Iyengar community of Tamil Nadu are responsible for the upkeep and pooja of the temple that is dedicated to lord Rangji, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Photography inside the temple is prohibited. Dark clouds gather in the sky, and it begins to drizzle. I cover my head with a shawl and walk to the next temple.
Sri Rama Vaikunth Nath Temple or New Rangji Temple
We enter a courtyard through a doorway with massive wooden doors. This temple is also in South Indian style with a high gopuram in white. Numerous gods and goddesses are carved on the gopuram. The temple is shut briefly in the afternoon, so we quickly visit it. Photography is not allowed inside the temple.
Brahma Temple
It is now time to visit the Brahma Temple. After plopping off our shoes, we climb the marble stairs to the temple. The caretakers ask devotees to mind their steps as it’s raining and slippery. Photography is also discouraged.
The Legend
Parashar narrates the legend behind the temple. Lord Brahma saw the demon Vajranabha trying to kill his children and troubling the locals. He slew the demon with his weapon, the lotus flower. In the ensuing encounter, the lotus petals fell on the ground at three places, creating three lakes. The Jyeshta Pushkar Lake, or the Greatest Pushkar Lake just outside Brahma temple; Madhya or middle Pushkar Lake; Kanishta Pushkar Lake, or the lowest Pushkar Lake.
Lord Brahma then decided to perform a yagna, or sacred fire ritual, at the main Pushkar Lake. To perform this ritual, his wife, Savitri, had to be present. However, she got delayed due to miscommunication, so Lord Brahma decided to marry Gayatri. When Savitri arrived, she was enraged seeing Lord Brahma performing the yajna with Gaytri. She cursed him that he would never be worshipped, but then changed it only to be worshipped in Pushkar.
We visit the sanctum of the temple, which has a four-faced idol of Lord Brahma. The back face of the idol can be viewed in a mirror at the rear. We pay our respects and leave the temple
Savitri Mata Temple
Perched on a hilltop is the temple dedicated to Savitri Mata. A ropeway or a trek takes you to the top of the hill. However, the ropeway was non-functional, so we couldn’t visit the temple. The aerial panoramic view of the Pushkar Lake and the town from the hill is spectacular.
Gayatri Mata Temple
On another hill top is the temple dedicated to Lord Brahma’s other wife Gayatri Mata. There is no ropeway to go up this hill so one will have to trek it up in case you chose to visit the temple.
Pushkar Bazaar
The bazaar road which begins from Brahma temple, is choc-a-block with shops. You will see them selling Bohemian fashion, silver jewellery, macrame items, religious scriptures and paraphernalia. For someone who loves art and all things Bohemian, I feel like a child who has been taken to Disneyland and in my case Boholand. I can’t stop myself from admiring the boho bags, jewellery, outfits, and décor items. There is a separate article on shopping in Pushkar, which you can read here.
Food in Pushkar
While exploring the temples, our guide, Parashar, also got us to savour some malpuwa or sweetened deep-fried pancakes. Kachoris, samosas and chaats are another favourite food here. Sweets of different varieties and chaas or buttermilk are other must-have foods. Not just Indian, but Pushkar is known for its international cuisine. Since foreigners frequent Pushkar, you will get many food options from Italian, Middle Eastern, Chinese, Mexican, etc. It is close to lunchtime, and we eat a falafel salad wrap. There are several rooftop cafes in Pushkar where you can savour some food treats while watching the Pushkar lake.
The temple town of Pushkar, with its Bohemian vibes, had swept me off my feet. This town is nothing like the other Rajasthan cities and has a distinct identity of its own. In some ways, it has a laid-back, old-world charm, but then, on the other hand, you feel you are in a dreamy boho land with the latest boho styles.
Parashar our guide had shared this bit of wisdom with us. He explained that it’s not in the hands of an individual to visit the holy town of Pushkar. It is when Pushkar calls you that the universe will conspire and you will visit it. Some kind of a divine intervention is at play and you will be drawn to it.
Ajmer
Since Ajmer is just 40 minutes from Pushkar by car, we decided to take a quick visit and pay our respects at the Ajmer Sharif Dargah. Our helpers for Darshan/Ziyarat pick us from a predetermined spot in an electric rickshaw. Through narrow back lanes lined by shops selling clothes, jewellery, itar/perfume, etc., we get dropped off at the back door of the dargah.
We enter the premises, which are crowded with faithful. We are introduced to Syed Layaque, who briefs us about the history and significance of the dargah. The tomb or dargah belongs to 13th-century Sufi saint and philosopher Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti. Emperor Akbar had walked several times from Agra/Delhi to Ajmer. At the bequest of the Sufi saint Moinuddin Chisti, he was blessed with a son, Jahangir or Salim. The dome-shaped structure of the dargah is in white, and parts of it are made of white marble. We decided to offer a chadar (floral sheet) and some flowers and pay our respects at the dargah. We leave Ajmer and head to Jaipur to catch our flight.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: The nearest airport to Pushkar is Kishangarh Airport, 28 km away but with fewer connections. Other nearby airports include Jaipur, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Distances: Jaipur to Pushkar- 140 km or 3 hours.
Pushkar to Ajmer- 40 km or 1 hour.
Where to stay: We stayed at Westin Pushkar. Zostel Pushkar is a popular hostel accommodation. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Contact of Guide in Pushkar: Kaushal Parashar- 8875079595
Contact of Helper for Darshan or Ziyarat in Ajmer: Syed Layaque Hussain Aghai Chishty. 24th generation gaddinashin and keyholders of Dargah Sharif Ajmer- 9587786661, 7665511228.
Travel Help: Rajasthan Routes and Trails helped us with the travel and to plan this trip to Pushkar and Ajmer.
Travel Tip: Please be modestly dressed as you will be visiting several holy places of worship. Do check the trimings of the temples and plan your visit accordingly. Be wary of your wallets and purses. Do not accept flowers from anyone in Pushkar; they will ask you to pay.
Other Pushkar Blogs on ‘So Many Travel Tales’
Things to Shop in Pushkar