Lisbon or Lisboa, the city on the banks of River Tagus with seven hills is the capital of Portugal. The city is full of stunning architecture, vantage points that provide panoramic views, museums with curated collections, and aesthetic neighbourhoods. The cobblestone streets, lined with pastel-hued houses with red roofs decorated with wrought iron balconies and hand-painted tiles, are a treat to the eyes. Alfresco cafes, boutique shops, historic alleys and bustling plazas make Lisbon captivating and appealing. Join us as we delve into the heart of this fascinating city, discovering its rich history, uncovering its hidden treasures, indulging in its culinary delights, and embracing the vibrant Lisbon life. Read on to know how we went about exploring Lisbon.
Lisbon Neighbourhoods
There are several neighbourhoods across the length and breadth of Lisbon with numerous attractions, monuments and squares. During our stay in Lisbon, we explored the following neighbourhoods:
1. Baixa-Chiado is the central and liveliest neighbourhood in Lisbon.
2. Alfama is renowned for its steep streets, authentic eateries, charming cafes, and quaint boutiques. You’ll also encounter the iconic Tram no. 28, which winds through Alfama’s steep inclines to São Jorge Castle. It is considered the birthplace of Fado music.
3. Belem, from where Portugal’s various explorers set sail to explore the world. It has the famous Jeronimos Monastery, Belem Tower, Monument to the Discoveries and other attractions. There is a separate travelogue on Belem, which you can read about here.
4. The tree lined boulevards on Avenida da Liberdade with luxurious brand stores and upscale hotels is where we stayed in Lisbon.
Baixa
Baixa is Lisbon’s bustling downtown district known for its grand plazas, historic avenues, and vibrant atmosphere. We explored this district for two days. Once, as part of a food trail, we explored Rua Augusta, Rossio Square, Praça da Figueira and the Church of St. Dominic. There is a separate travelogue for these attractions, which you can read about here. On the second day, we explored the remaining attractions of Baixa- Praça do Comércio, Santa Justa Elevator, Carmo Convent and Carmo Square. But please note you can see an experience it all in one day. In fact, we ended up seeing most of the attractions we had seen on the first day in Baixa on the second day, too.
This travelogue will focus only on the second day of our Baixa exploration. (For Day 1 of our Baixa exploration, click here)
Praco do Comerico/ Commerce Square/ Terreiro do Paço/ Palace Yard/Square
We arrive at Praça do Comércio, which is Lisbon’s main square. The Royal Palace, Paço da Ribeira, once stood on this very square until the big earthquake in 1755. Hence, this square is also called Terreiro do Paço, or Palace Yard/Square. It was the city’s prominent spot for trade and shipping for many years. Ships used to unload goods here, making it Lisbon’s main entrance. Nearby is the Cais de Sodré ferry terminal, where ferries sail along the Tagus River. We can see the Tagus River on one side, and on the other, there are yellow buildings with arches.
One of the buildings houses the Lisboa Story Centre. It is an interactive museum delving into Lisbon’s history from its origins until today. A rally is in progress, and the square is very noisy. Tuktuk drivers show us a pamphlet and tell us they can show us around the city. We politely decline, focusing on exploring as much as we can on our own.
Arco do Triunfo/ Triumphal Arch/Rua Augusta Arch
The Rua Augusta Arch, located in Commerce Square/ Praça do Comércio, is one of Lisbon’s most iconic landmarks. It commemorates the city’s reconstruction following the devastating earthquake of 1755. On the other side of the arch is Rua Agusta, the most famous street in Lisbon, which we visited on the first day.
Equestrian Statue of Joseph I
The Equestrian Statue of King Joseph I is also located in the Commerce Square /Praça do Comércio. Erected in the 18th century, this imposing bronze statue pays tribute to King Joseph I.
Santa Justa Lift
In Lisbon, there are even elevators that take you from a lower level to a higher level, so you are spared from climbing uphill. The Santa Justa Lift, also known as Elevador de Santa Justa or Carmo Lift, is one such lift located in Baixa. Designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel (the guy who built the Eiffel Tower in Paris), this historic elevator has been an iconic symbol of Lisbon since its inauguration in 1902.
The Santa Justa Lift is a wrought-iron masterpiece that connects the lower streets of Baixa with the higher Carmo Square and the ruins of the Carmo Convent. At the top, a viewing platform awaits, providing sweeping vistas of Lisbon’s historic centre. There is a long queue for the lift and we decide to give it a skip and climb uphill to Largo do Carmo.
Largo do Carmo/Carmo Square
I am breathless as I reach the square after all that climbing and park myself on a bench facing the Carmo Convent. A fountain stands in the middle of the square, shaded by Jacaranda trees. People are dining at restaurants and relaxing. This square was the focal point of the 25th April 1974 Carnation Revolution. Military officers, supported by civilians, overthrew the authoritarian government Estado Novo regime. It ended nearly five decades of dictatorship and led to the establishing of democracy in Portugal.
Portuguese National Republican Guard (GNR) headquarters and the National Republican Guard Museum are a part of the Carmo Convent. Two soldiers in uniform stand guard outside the museum. Strolling along the square, one can see the Santa Justa Lift’s viewing platform providing sweeping vistas of Lisbon’s historic centre, including landmarks like São Jorge Castle, the Tagus River, and the red-tiled rooftops of Alfama.
Carmo Archaeological Museum /Church of Santa Maria/Carmo Convent
The ruins of the Carmo Convent, located in Largo do Carmo, are a poignant reminder of the devastating earthquake that struck Lisbon. The convent was initially built in the Gothic style in the 14th century. The faithful had assembled for mass on All Saint’s Day on 1st November 1775 when its roof collapsed on the congregation. It was never fully restored, but its Gothic arches remain, which you can still see to this day. The Carmo Archaeological Museum (Museu Arqueológico do Carmo) is located within the ruins of the Carmo Convent (Convento do Carmo) in Lisbon, Portugal. This museum showcases a diverse collection of archaeological artefacts spanning various periods of Portuguese history, from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages.
Alfama
Some tourists choose to take Tram 28 through the Alfama neighbourhood because it’s so hilly, but whether you choose to burn some calories or contend with the tram crowds, a visit to the picturesque Alfama is a must. With a history that dates back to the Moors, Alfama is characterized by narrow, cobblestone streets that wind past dozens of quaint shops, cosy restaurants and traditional Fado clubs, all of which are housed within historic yet well-preserved architecture. Popular city attractions like St. George’s Castle, Lisbon Cathedral and Feira de Ladra are also located in Alfama.
Lisbon Cathedral
We hop on bus 737, which takes us to Lisbon Cathedral, also known as Sé de Lisboa, which is one of the oldest and most iconic landmarks in Portugal’s capital city. Dating back to the 12th century, this majestic cathedral combines various architectural styles, including Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements. The front of the cathedral looks like a fortress, with two bell towers on each side of the entrance, a stained glass rose window, and walls with crenellations. We enter the cathedral and can see the nave and altar. The Gothic arches and dome with windows through which light enters create a magical effect. We can see a painting on the front wall and decorative lamps hanging from the ceiling.
St George Castle/ Castelo de S. Jorge
São Jorge Castle dates back to the 11th century when the Moors constructed it as a military stronghold. In 1147, Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, captured the castle, making it the royal palace for centuries. The castle derives its name from St. George, the patron saint of England, in honour of the English Crusader knights who aided King Afonso in liberating Portugal from Moorish rule. After the royal palace was relocated to Praça do Comércio in the 16th century, the castle served as a military outpost. Despite suffering damage in the earthquake, São Jorge Castle underwent restoration in 1938, preserving its historic legacy for generations to come. Recently, archaeological excavations in the area have unearthed remnants of Phoenician, Greek, and Carthaginian civilizations, shedding new light on the region’s ancient history.
Statue of Afonso Henriques
As we enter the stonewalled gate of the castle, we find ourselves in a square with a bronze statue of Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king. There are remnants of the royal palace in the square, too.
Peacocks a Plenty
Peacocks are sauntering, and very soon, a peacock unfurls its plumage in a show of display. It’s a peacock with partial leucism and so has a mix of white and colourful feathers. Many peacocks in the castle are stuttering around and roosting on trees, and it’s a pleasure to sit and watch them from such close quarters.
Miradouro do Castelo de São Jorge
We walk to the boundary of the terrace, which presents some of Lisbon’s most captivating vistas. We can see the entire cityscape of off-white buildings with trademark orange rooftops and the Tagus River, 25 de Abril bridge akin to San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, Cristo Rei that resembles the Christ the Redeemer statue of Brazil, Alfama and Baixa districts.
Canons
There are several ancient canons around the boundary of the castle terrace. The castle on the hill provided the first signs of enemy invasion, and the canons were the first line of defence for protecting the city.
Garden
We wander through a garden with trees and benches where you can sit, relax, and watch the peacocks and other birds.
Castle
A stone bridge takes you inside the castle, and we find ourselves in a courtyard. I sit on a bench as Rafiq wanders around the ramparts and towers of the castle. There are many steps to climb and walk, but the views are picturesque, too. One of the towers has a Periscope/ Camera Obscura that provides a 360-degree live view of Lisbon.
Archaeological Site
Numerous archaeological excavations have been conducted within the premises of São Jorge Castle, revealing evidence of three distinct periods of occupation. Iron Age 3rd Century B.C. Moorish Quarter 11th-12th century and the medieval period 18th century.
Church of Santa Cruz do Castelo
Inside the castle walls lies a quaint neighbourhood called “Castelo”, or officially known as Santa Cruz do Castelo. We walk on the narrow cobbled lanes of Rua das Flores de Santa Cruz, which leads us to the Church of Santa Cruz do Castelo. It’s a small and peaceful church. Visitors can ascend the bell towers for panoramic views of the surroundings.
Feira da Ladra
The ‘Feira da Ladra’ or ‘Thieves’ Market’ is a famous flea market held in Campo de Santa Clara, Alfama, every Tuesday and Saturday from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. Alfama was also the birthplace of Fado Music. It carries a soulful, melancholic feeling because it was created by women whose husbands sailed away on long journeys. These women didn’t know if their husbands would return or when, and their uncertainty is reflected in the music. Many clubs host Fado performances to preserve this tradition, ensuring that this important part of Lisbon’s culture lives on.
Belem
It was from where Portugal’s various explorers set sail to explore the world. It has the famous Jeronimos Monastery, Belem Tower, Monument to the Discoveries and other attractions. There is a separate travelogue on Belem, which you can read here.
Avenida da Liberdade
Avenida da Liberdade, translating to “Avenue of Liberty,” is one of Lisbon’s most prestigious and elegant thoroughfares modelled on the lines of the boulevards of Paris, especially the Champs-Élysées. Stretching for approximately 1.5 kilometers, this grand boulevard connects the bustling Baixa district with the charming Restauradores Square. Our hotel is located on this avenue, so we walk along it several times. It has wide pedestrian sidewalks adorned with mosaic pavements, and several statues and fountains can be seen along it. The green cover of majestic trees and benches where you can sit and enjoy a leisurely conversation make this avenue appealing. We walk past several luxury brand stores like Gucci, Prada, Dior, Michael Kors, and others.
Restauradores Square
On the southern end of the avenue, we can see the obelisk erected to commemorate Portugal’s regained independence. Restauradores Square acquired its name in honour of those who rebelled against Spanish rule in 1640.
Marquis of Pombal Square
Praça Marquês de Pombal, or Marquis of Pombal Square, is on the northwest side of Avenida da Liberdade. Named after Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, the Marquis of Pombal, who was a key figure in the reconstruction of Lisbon after the devastating earthquake of 1755. The statue portrays Marquis positioned atop a column, with one hand resting on a lion, symbolizing authority, and his gaze directed towards the rebuilt downtown area.
Rua das de Santo Antao
We stayed in a Marriott-owned apartment on this street. This street, after Rua Augusta, is the most vibrant pedestrian street. There are cafes and restaurants with alfresco dining, souvenir shops and even theatres like Coliseu dos Recreios and Teatro Politeama. We stroll every night on this street and eat at one of the restaurants. We even wanted to attend a musical at the theatre but were short of time. To the north, the street culminates at Largo da Anunciada, where we see the Elevador do Lavra, Lisbon’s oldest funicular. Operating since its inauguration in 1884, it can carry 42 passengers at a time to the hilltop near the Torel garden and viewpoint.
What to eat in Lisbon?
While in Lisbon, you can savour an array of assorted tapas/ starters, to the trademark custard-filled tarts/ pastéis de nata to shots of delicious ginjinah cherry liquor and cod delicacies. There is a separate blog on a Food Trail in Lisbon that you can read here.
What and where to shop in Lisbon?
We suggest buying distinctly Portuguese things that are unique to the country and artisan-made, like azulejo tiles, cork products, local artworks and paintings, Portuguese embroidery, and linens, to name a few. For unique souvenirs and traditional handicrafts, head to the historic districts of Alfama and Baixa, where you’ll find charming shops selling Portuguese tiles, ceramics, and cork products. Rua Augusta Street in the Baixa district of Lisbon has several shops where you can pick up these souvenirs. There is a separate blog on Shopping in Lisbon, which you can read here.
Exploring Lisbon has been nothing short of extraordinary, offering a captivating blend of historical wonders, stunning architecture, culinary delights, and unforgettable experiences. From exploring iconic attractions like São Jorge Castle, Belém Tower, and the charming Alfama district to savouring the city’s delectable cuisine featuring pastéis de nata, delicious cheese, and tapas/ starters, every moment has been a feast for the senses. The city’s diverse shopping scene, from lively markets to upscale boutiques along Avenida da Liberdade, has provided endless opportunities to discover unique treasures and souvenirs. As we bid farewell to Lisbon, we carry cherished memories of its rich culture, history, and flavours, making it a journey that will always hold close to our hearts.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Humberto Delgado Airport is the international airport of Lisbon, Portugal. From India, there are no direct flights to Lisbon. I flew from Mumbai to Abu Dhabi and then took a flight to Lisbon. My husband flew in directly from Toronto to Lisbon.
Where to Stay: We stayed at Hotel Tivoli Avenida Liberdade for the first four days and at an apartment in Rua das de Santo Antao by Marriott Bonvoy for the next four days. There are lots of options available depending on budget and comfort.
Travel Tip: Please get yourself a Lisboa Card for exploring Lisbon. It is worth it. It gives free access to St George Castle, Jeronimo’s Monastery and Belém Tower and covers public transport like tram rides. Taxis and Ubers are also competitive compared to other European countries.