Mandu, located in Vindhya ranges 2000 feet above sea level, was a town that flourished in the 8th century. It was ruled by several dynasties like the Parmar Kings, Gurjar Kings, Khiljis and Mughals. Known as the ‘City of Joy’ Mandu is known for its natural beauty, stunning architecture and narratives of kings and queens. Numerous monuments steeped in history with amazing architecture cover the expanse of Mandu, which are divided into groups. This article focuses on the Group of Monuments between Sagar Talao and Village, like Darya Khan’s Tomb, Laal Sarai and Hathi Mahal. After visiting the Rewa Kund Group of Monuments, we head to explore this group of monuments. Read on to know how we went about exploring the Mandu Group of Monuments between Sagar Talao and Village.
Baobab Khurasan Imli Trees
After exploring the Rewa Kund Group of Monuments we head to the Group of Monuments between Sagar Talao and the Village. We see several Baobab Khurasan Imli trees on the way. These trees are native to Africa and were brought to Mandu by Mahmud Khilji in the 14th century. The tree bears fruits that are in the shape of bread rolls. Inside are several seeds covered with pulp. We purchase some, and they have a mildly sour taste, unlike the Indian imli/tamarind, which has a pronounced sour taste. Javed, our guide, explains that if one eats this fruit, one will not feel thirsty for the next 2-3 hours.
Baobab Khurasa Imli @Rafiq Somani
Somvati Kundh
We enter the Darya Khan’s Tomb complex through a spinning gate. A pathway takes us to a large square-shaped water body called Somvati Kundh. Our guide explains that it also served as a Wazukhana for sacred ablution before entering the mosque for prayers.
Darya Khan’s Mosque
On the southwest side of the Somvati Kundh is Darya Khan’s mosque. There are a series of arches through which one can enter the mosque. The roof has a big dome in the centre with a series of three smaller domes on either side.
Monument near Darya Khan’s Tomb
This unknown monument (as per ASI) is rectangular-shaped with three arched-shaped openings which have been fitted with metal jhalis. There are five domes on the top. There is a large central dome with four smaller domes in four corners. Our guide tells us it was a mosque used by the women.
Darya Khan’s Tomb
Who was Darya Khan, one might wonder? He was a court official under Mahmud Khalji II, who ruled from 1510-1526. It might sound strange, but he built this tomb for himself while he was alive. Arched corridors line the central courtyard with the tomb. The tomb made of red sandstone, is on an elevated platform. On the roof are five domes. A large dome is in the centre, with four domes on the four corners. There are two arched-shaped lattice windows on either side of the arched entrance.
As we enter the mausoleum we see three graves. The central grave is the biggest and belongs to Darya Khan. No one knows who the other two graves belong to. On the ceiling are remnants of blue and yellow tiles that must have once adorned it.
Laal Sarai
We wander in the complex and find several ruins indicating that this place in a bygone era must be bustling with people and activity. A signage tells us that the ruins once were a serai or inn where travellers and traders rested for the night.
Ruins in Darya Khan’s Tomb Enclosure @Rafiq Somani
Hathi Mahal
This monument is so-called because of the unusually large size of its pillars. We can see the Hathi Mahal in the fields from the top of the corridors surrounding the courtyard that houses Darya Khan’s Tomb.
Sarai Kothari
We exit Daryan Khan’s Tomb complex, and on the main road, we see another serai called Sarai Kothari. The fact that Mandu has so many serais indicates that several traders visited it, and it was an important trading centre.
We next proceed to see the Village Group of Monuments about which you can read here. End of Part 2 of 5. Read Part 3 here.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: The nearest airport to Mandu is the Devi Ahiliyabai Holkar Airport in Indore, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Distances:
Mandu- Indore: 85 km or 2 hours 15 mins.
Mandu- Maheshwar: 40 km or 1 hour.
Where to stay: We stayed at the MPT Malwa by Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Guide Details: Javed Qureshi: 9669198418
Travel Tip: Wear comfortable shoes and a hat as there will be considerable walking in the sun. Carry water bottles to keep yourself hydrated. You will need at least two days to explore Mandu, so plan your trip well.