Bhubaneshwar is called the Temple City with magnificent sandstone temples that are testimony to Kalinga architecture spanning 2,000 years from the 3rd Century BC to the 15th Century AD. Ekamra Kshetra is the old city of Bhubaneshwar, which boasts sandstone temples, water bodies and smaller shrines. It contains several ancient temples of varying sizes, from the colossal Lingaraj Temple, which is 128 feet high, to miniature ones on the roads and along the banks of ancient water tanks. Ekamra Kshetra made it to the Tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site list in 2014. Emakra Walks are organised by the Bhubaneswar Municipal Corporation and Bhubaneswar Development Authority on weekends. We were in Bhubaneshwar on a weekday and hence ended up doing the Ekamra Kshetra Bhubaneshwar Old City Walk, covering the Lingaraja Temple Circuit on our own.
What is the meaning of Ekamra Kshetra?
‘Ekamra’ means ‘mango trees’, and Kshetra means ‘area. So ‘Ekamra Kshetra’, when translated into English, means ‘Area of Mango Trees.’ In ancient times, there were hundreds of mango trees here. According to Ekamra Purana, Lord Lingaraj was originally under a mango tree.
Legend of Ekamra Kshetra
Legend has it that Lord Shiva and his wife Parvati had settled in Kashi/Varanasi after their marriage. Kashi soon became crowded, so Lord Shiva moved elsewhere to meditate peacefully. He, however, didn’t mention to Paravati where he was meditating and chose to meditate in a forest under a large mango tree. This place is what is now called Ekamra Kshetra and Gupt Kashi or ‘Hidden Kashi.’ Parvati came in search of him, and when she saw hundreds of cows under a mango tree milking on their own, she knew Shiva was there.
Start of Ekamra Walk
After eating breakfast, we drive down to the vicinity of the Lingaraja Temple in old Bhubaneshwar City. With a copy of the walking guide on my phone and a little help from Pintu, our driver, we begin exploring the Ekamra Kshetra. It helps that signages and boards spell out details of the temples.
Baitala Temple/Vaitala Temple:
En route to the Lingaraja Temple, we stop our car when we see a signage for Baitala Temple. This temple was the last on our map, but we end up seeing it first. This temple is adjacent to a busy road and has houses around it. Unlike other temples of Odisha, which have a curvilinear shikhara or tower, the Baitala Temple has a half-cylindrical (khakara) or vault at the top. It’s more like the South Indian style gopurams. Built in the 8th Century, the temple is dedicated to Goddess Chamunda, a ferocious form of Shakti. There are niches in the walls with gods and goddesses, female figures, amorous couples, and mythological creatures carved. The temple is dedicated to Tantric worship.
Details of Baitala Temple @Rafiq Somani
Sisiresvara Temple
The Sisiresvara Temple is in the same compound as the Baitala Temple. It consists of a Rekha Deul/main temple with curvilinear shikhara (part has crumbled over time) and adjoining square-shaped Jagamohana or assembly hall. Here, too, there are niches on the walls with Gods and Goddesses carved. Sadly, buildings surround these two temples, and there is hardly any space to move around and admire the beautiful carvings.
Chitrakarini Temple
We driver further and see so many temples on both sides of the road as we are nearing the Lingaraja Temple. We enter the Chitrakarini Temple Complex, and it’s pleasing to see manicured lawns. The central temple has a Rekha Deul/ Main Temple with Shikhara and adjoining Jagamohana/ Assembly Hall. There are four other shrines on the four corners. Since the Chitrakarini Temple Complex is adjacent to the Lingaraja Temple complex, we can see the spire of the Lingaraja Temple, too. (More on this temple later)
Papanasini Temple Complex (Maitreswara Temple)
Next, we see a signage saying Maitreswara Temple. When we enter, we realise that it is not just Maitreswara Temple alone, but there are several other temples in the complex. There is some confusion about the origin of the temple’s name. Some believe it is named after Mitra, who was a disciple of Lakulisa. Others argue that it gets its name from Maitravati, the queen of Kashi. There are other temples and structures in the complex. There is a water tank called Papanasini, which means ‘Destroyer of Sins.’ It is a belief that when one takes a dip in holy waters, sins are washed away.
Makareswara Temple
We see another temple close to the Papanasini Temple Complex and walk in. There is no signage, and it is only later that we know it is Makareswara Temple. In the centre of the complex is the Makareswara Temple, which is in the same style as a curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main Temple with Jagamohana/Assembly Hall. In one of the corners is a smaller shrine. There are a couple of shivlings placed on a platform.
Suka Temple and Sari Temple
Next, we see a complex that houses the Suka and Sari Temple. Excavation work is in progress. The Sari Temple was built in the 13th Century and has a curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main Temple and a Jagamohana/Assembly Hall. On the other hand, the Suka Temple only has the curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main Temple, although the Jagamohan/Assembly Hall may have existed in the past. There are several fragments of temples lying around the temple complex.
Gouri Shankar Temple
As mentioned in our introduction, 700 temples of varying sizes once existed in Ekamra Kshetra. One of the smaller temples is called Gouri Shankar temple, which is in the middle of the street. It is painted red, and since it is on a traffic island, it is called a Traffic Temple!
Dharamshala
It is no surprise that if scores of pilgrims visited Ekram Kshetra lodging facilities were essential. We see colonial-style buildings opposite the Bindu Sagar Lake, which served as Dharmshalas or ‘Guesthouses’ for the pilgrims. They continue to function even today. Rai Bahadur Dalmiya and Rai Hazarimul Doodwawaala Bahadur Dharmshalas, built in the 1920s are next to each other.
Entrance of Rai Hazarimul Doodwawaala Bahadur Dharmshala @Rafiq Somani
Bindu Sagar Lake and Brahma Mandir
The Bindu Sagar Lake is a square water body with steps leading to it. There are smaller shrines around the temple. People are performing poojas and rites of passages for the deceased. On banana leaves are morsels of food. There are aquatic birds in the lake. Water is an important element for Hindu worshippers. Taking a dip in water before entering temples used to be the norm; not just to cleanse one’s body but also to wash away sins. In the middle of the Bindu Sagar Lake is a small temple called Brahma Mandir.
Bhabani Shankar Temple
Close to Bindu Sagar Lake and opposite the Dharmshalas is a green cover in which we see some temples. A signboard tells us that it is the Bhabani Shankar Temple, built in the 14th Century. The temple complex has two shrines partly submerged under the ground. We can see a temple with a curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main Temple and Jagamohana/ Assembly Hall from the thick vegetation. When you are new to a place, you discover so much more than you originally planned. This temple complex and so many other temples were not part of our walk. We are tempted to explore the complex, but since there are no clearly defined walking paths or maps, we resist the temptation and explore other temples.
Pataleswara Temple
Touching the Bindu Sagar Lake periphery is the Pataleshwara Temple. Built around the 10-11th Century, the temple is partly submerged under the ground and has a shivling and a colourful shrine near it.
Ananta Basudeva/Vasudeva Temple
This 13th Century temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu (in Krishna Avtar), unlike all other temples dedicated to Shiva or goddesses. This is an active/living temple where pooja happens even today, buzzing with pilgrims and faithful. Pandita prepare Maha Prasada, or offering food called Abhada, in earthen pots and serve it on banana leaves. They serve the prasad from earthen pots of varying sizes as families sit in groups and relish it.
Ananta Basudeva is the second largest temple in Ekamra Kshetra and is similar to Lingaraj Temple. The temple structure consists of Bhoga Mandir (Temple of offerings), Natya Mandir (Dancing Hall), Jagamohana (Assembly Hall) and curvilinear Rekha Deul (Main Temple). Like in Jagannath Puri Temple, the inner sanctum has three idols- Lord Krishna (Vasudev), Balarama (Krishna’s elder brother) and Subhadra (Younger sister). We sit in the compound of the temple complex as a gentle breeze flows and try to get an all-encompassing view of the temple. We admire the intricate carvings on the temple.
Teertheswara Temple
Sandwiched between homes is the Teertheswara Temple, made of sandstone and dated 14th Century AD. There is a yellow-coloured structure in front of it. We just happen to pass by this temple, which was not part of our original plan.
Lingaraj Temple
The first thing you will be asked to visit in Bhubaneshwar is the Lingaraj Temple. The epicentre of the Ekamra Kshetra is the Lingaraj Temple, which is the most significant temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.
We see a large water tank called Devi Padahara Pond as we enter the temple complex. The square water tank has 108 small shrines around its periphery and steps leading to it. One might wonder what is the significance of 108. The answer is that the Mala or Rosary used by Hindus has 108 beads. Vendors sell temple offerings of flowers, earthen diyas/lamps, coconuts and numerous other things. You need to deposit your phones and cameras before entering the temple. Lots of people have assembled for darshan, and the place is buzzing.
Temple offerings and people at entrance of Lingaraja Temple @Rafiq Somani
In terms of design, the Lingaraj temple consists of the curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main Temple, Jagamohana/Assembly Hall, Natya Mandir/Dancing Hall and Bhoga Mandapa/Food Offering Hall. There are several smaller shrines in the temple compound.
Curzon Mandap
The temple restricts entry to non-Hindus and foreigners, including Lord Curzon, who was not allowed to enter the Lingaraj Temple. At his insistence, they erected a viewing point called Curzon Mandap. It’s a viewing platform with a staircase touching the walls of the temple complex. It provides a panoramic view of the temple. The sun is glaring right before our eyes, making it difficult for Rafiq to capture the temple. The best time to capture a good pic is early morning, is what we realise.
We get into the car and Pintu, our driver, drive past the Bindu Sagar Lake towards the next set of temples, which are a little less than a kilometre away.
Parasuramesvara Temple
This temple is on the way to Mukteswar Temple and Siddheswara temple, which are more popular. But do stop and see the Parasuramesvara Temple, which dates back to the 7th Century and is one of the oldest surviving temples. Its structure consists of a curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main temple and a square-shaped Jagamohan/Assembly Hall. The temple has intricate carvings from top to bottom.
Mukteswara Temple
We enter the Mukteswara Temple complex, which boasts manicured lawns and trimmed hedges. On the right side is the Mukteswara Temple, and on the northwest is the Siddeswara Temple. (more of it later). The Mukteswara Temple built in the 10th Century and marked the evolution of the Kalingan Architectural style. Experts hence describe it as the ‘Gem of Kalingan Architecture.’
An intricately carved Torana or Ornamental Gateway/ Arch is in front of the temple. This is the only temple in Odisha where we have seen this feature. The Mukteswara Temple consists of a curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main Temple with a square-shaped mandapa with a pyramidal roof Jagamohan/ Assembly Hall. There are several smaller shrines and a water body near the temple. There are numerous carvings on the temple walls.
Siddeswara Temple
The Siddeswara Temple is in the same compound as Mukteswara Temple. Built in the 15th Century, the temple consists of a curvilinear Rekha Deul and Jagamohan/Assembly Hall. Although built five centuries after the Mukteswara Temple, one would expect it to be more elaborate than its elder sibling, but that is not the case.
Kedar Gouri Temple
This temple is located opposite the Mukteswara Temple complex. The temple complex is buzzing with faithful. It has several temples painted white.
Artist at work
Close to the Kedar Gouri Temple is an artist from Raghurajpur painting a pattachitra. He has his studio and takes me in to show his work. Since we plan to visit Raghurajpur, this is just a trailer. There is a separate blog on this, which you can read here.
There are several other temples that we pass while exploring the Ekamra Kshetra. We can spend another day just visiting these temples, but time is a constraint. The heat is killing us, and with the afternoon sun blazing over our heads, we are low on energy. We get into our car and head to the Raja Rani temple, a short distance away.
Raja Rani Temple
We enter a well-maintained garden and walk towards the Raja Rani Temple. There are hardly any tourists except for a foreign couple. The temple built in the 11th Century consists of a curvilinear Rekha Deul/ Main Temple and square with a pyramid-shaped Jagamohan or Assembly Hall. The temple gets its name after the type of sandstone called Rajarani used in its construction.
The façade of the temple is full of carvings like panels of floral patterns, vyalas (mythological creatures with bodies that are a combination of animals), and amorous couples. The erotic statues make this temple very popular among tourists and locals.
Our Ekamra Kshetra Bhubaneshwar Old City Walk has come to an end. Do visit the Ekamra Van, a botanical garden near Bindu Sagar Lake. It is part of the Ekamra Walks, along with an Odissi dance performance.
Will Ekamra Kshetra make it become a UNESCO World Heritage Site?
We are no authority nor archaeologists, but as travellers who like visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites, this is a question that popped into our minds. UNESCO has compared the Ekamra Kshetra to other UNESCO World Heritage sites like Hampi and Pattadakal in Karnataka, The Great Living Chola temples of South India in Tamil Nadu and even Angor Watt in Cambodia. This means it has all the ingredients to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but what is also needed is the will and effort to maintain a site so that it can make it to the list.
We saw encroachments around temples, so many temples were scattered and needed attention. Unless the stakeholders invest in protecting these structures, we will not see Ekamra Kshetra soon becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Odisha Government, Odisha Tourism Development Corporation, Bhubaneswar Municipal Corporation and Bhubaneswar Development Authority, and other backers are all making efforts. If this continues with vigour and due diligence, then Ekamra Kshetra will make it as a UNESCO World Heritage Site sooner rather than later.
After visiting the monuments in the Ekamra Kshetra Bhubaneshwar Old City Walk, we head to the Udaygiri and Khandagiri Caves. You can read about these here.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: The nearest airport is Bhubaneswar Biju Patnaik International Airport, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Where to stay: You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Travel Tip: The mornings are the best time to do the Ekamra Kshetra Bhubaneshwar Old city Walk. Please carry water bottles and wear a hat, especially in summer, to keep yourself hydrated and protect yourself from the sun. Comfortable shoes are a nonnegotiable as there will be considerable walking involved. Ekamra Walks (https://www.ekamra-walks.com/) are organised on Sundays, so try registering for them, or you will have to do it on your own as we did.
Odisha Driver: Pintu 7978630261. He was not just our driver but also unofficial guide explaining the details of the monuments and narratives behind them.
Travel Planning Help: Om Leisure Holidays helped us plan this trip.