Tamhini in Mulshi Taluka near Pune is a small village in northern Western Ghats. It is blessed with emerald green forests, cascading waterfalls and lush green valleys. It has been recently declared as a wildlife sanctuary. Tamhini’s biodiversity is much talked about since it is home to unique and myriad flora and fauna. As enthusiastic bird watchers, we constantly search for treks, trails, or spots where we can do birding. We have spotted hundreds of birds and documented our experiences, from backyard birds visible from our Pune apartment window, to raptors in Banni Grasslands of Kutch, aquatic birds in Bhigwan, Himalayan birds in Uttarakhand, India’s paradise for bird lovers Bharatpur, outreach efforts to save a Mula-Mutha river and several others. So, our joy knew no bounds when we learned that Tamhini has some fabulous hideouts for observing shy, elusive forest birds from a close distance. More so because the difficult-to-spot and photograph Indian Paradise Flycatcher has been regularly spotted here. Read on to learn how we went bird-watching in Tamhini.
Ringing in the New Year at Tamhini
New Year’s Eve is mainly spent travelling either with friends or family, and now as an empty nester couple. The long weekend coinciding with the new year seemed the perfect time for bird-watching in Tamhini. After breakfast, we head from Pune to Tamhini. En route, pass Mulshi, which has a beautiful lake, dam and several resorts. We arrive close to lunchtime at Gardudmachi. It is an outbound management training and development centre, not the resort or hotel you expect. Mayur, one of the staff members, explains the significance of the name Gardudmachi. ‘Garud’ means ‘eagle’ and ‘Machi’ means “a plateau or platform.’ The mountains near Garudmachi were, in earlier times, home to eagles and vultures. But once the vehicular traffic on the ghats increased, they soon left their abode. Numerous other wildlife, including birds, can be seen in and around Garudmachi.
‘Garudmachi hideout’
Mayur tells us that they have created a hideout from where we can see birds in the evening. A small waterhole has been made in front of the hideout. As the day ends, birds drop in for some water to take a bath and cool off. We head to our room and rest for an hour or so. At 5 p.m., we head to the hideout, hoping to get a glimpse of the birds. We park ourselves in the hideout.
Rafiq is ready with his camera, and soon enough, we have our first avian sighting as a Common Chiffchaff flies in and hops around the water body. Next, a few Puff-throated Babblers come in, followed by Orange-headed Trush and Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher. We see a female Asian Paradise Flycatcher flying around the water body, but it does not take a dip. Soon, a Brown-cheeked Fulvetta and Sulphur-bellied Warbler arrive for a bath. It is getting dark, and Rafiq feels the photos are not great now due to the low light. We call it a day, but just as we step out of the hideout, we hear a beautiful whistling call, which Rafiq identifies as a Malabar Whistling-Trush. We follow the sound and see this deep blue bird with a shining forehead near a partially dried water tank.
Garudmachi Hideout
Arriving at Tamhini Nature’s Nest
The following day, while Rafiq heads back to the Grarudmaachi hideout early in the morning, I try to catch up on sleep. He doesn’t spot any significant bird activity, so we head to the dining hall for breakfast and enjoy some puri aloo bhaji, pohe, and tea. Perhaps the birds are searching for food and are not inclined to bathe due to the temperature not being warm enough.
We are all excited to head to Tahmini Nature’s Nest because we have heard some great reviews about their hideouts from Rafiq’s birding couple friends and sightings of rare birds. We drive to the spot, which is only 3.5 km from Garudmachi. As we enter the site, we see several nature enthusiasts and wildlife photographers from around India in wildlife earth colour attire eating breakfast. One glance at their attire, body language and attitude immediately gives you the feeling that hardcore nature enthusiasts are cool, level-headed and contended people as they are always at peace with themselves and nature.
Welcome and Dos and Don’ts
Ramdas Yenpure, the owner, welcomes us. He briefs us about the Tamhini Nature’s Nest dos and don’ts and basic protocols. He makes efforts to explain why these forest birds are highly sensitive. Unlike big migratory birds or predators accustomed to human movement, they are not used to human activities and noise. Mobile phones are to be silent, no food is allowed in the hideouts, no unnecessary movements in or out unless for meals, and bio breaks are to be taken, preferably during meal breaks.
Our first sighting
Suddenly, I notice a streak of white on trees from the corner of my eyes. Could it be the elusive Indian Paradise Flycatcher we have longed to photograph? I signal Ramdas, and we rush to the overgrowth of trees. It flies on another tree, and Ramdas confirms it is the male Indian Paradise Flycatcher. He informs other guests, and there is a flurry of activity. Most of the wildlife enthusiasts have their cameras in the hideout. Left with no choice, some resort to clicking pics with their smartphones.
Rafiq grabs his camera from the car and hastily clicks some shots without being able to focus the camera properly, as the bird is perched high up and hidden among the trees. The bird flies off even before the others can get hold of their cameras. We are thrilled that the moment of truth and our first sighting is the Indian Paradise Flycatcher, even if briefly, and it is exactly what we have come for. The male Indian Paradise Flycatcher is a stunning bird with long white tail feathers, glossy black and chestnut plumage, and a distinctive crest during the breeding season. Ramdas says that if we are lucky, we will see it again from the hideout later in the day.
The Hideout
Without wasting much time, we head to our hideout, a small hut covered with hay and foliage. It is dark inside, with an opening from where we can see the water hole. Natural rocks, undisturbed green foliage and water are all the elements that make it the perfect spot for birds. Birds usually come to such water bodies for several reasons:
- Hygiene and feather maintenance – to clean their feathers, which helps in insulation and flight performance
- Cooling off – to regulate their body temperature,
- Mating Rituals – as a part of courtship rituals by attracting mates or establishing social bonds,
- Drinking – quenching their thirst.
There is a water sprinkler to cool the ground and small perches and restore the water levels. Inside the hideout is a row of chairs for the photographers facing the opening and a second row for observers like me. We notice that even the chair bottoms have cushioning to avoid noise while adjusting or moving the sitting position. Rafiq grabs a seat in the front, and three other wildlife enthusiasts are armed with their zoom cameras. There are switchboards to charge batteries, mosquito-repellent coils, and water bottles. Even though hideout is very basic, every detail is taken care of for a hardcore bird enthusiast and photographer.
Tamhini Nature’s Nest Hideout
View from Hideout and Capturing Birds in Camera Lens
We are in the army now
Soon, we spot a family of Red Spurfowls who come to grab a sip at the water hole. These birds tiptoe together like a closely-knit family of chickens, their distinctive plumage adding a touch of vibrancy to the surroundings. The photographers go click happy, trying to grab the family in their lenses. The constant clicking sound of the cameras shows the urgency with which everyone tries to capture the birds before they fly off. I almost get a feeling that we are in an army hideout waiting with guns, ready to sight and shoot at enemy soldiers. The only difference is that we are not soldiers but nature lovers; instead of guns, we have cameras, and the birds are not enemies but avian beauties we have been smitten by, and no, we have no intent of killing the birds but just want to capture them in our lenses!
More Bird Sightings
As we settle down, two squirrels soon appear, chasing each other over rocks. A small Red breasted Flycatcher -female bird approaches the water hole, but the squirrels chase it away. Soon, we see a series of Warbler family birds, including the elusive Booted Warbler, melodic Blyth’s Reed Warbler and Sulphur-bellied Warbler. They hop in and out, take a dip in the water as if they are vying for attention, yet keep an eye out for any potential threats. Identifying these small birds from the Warbler family is difficult as they all look similar and change their plumage twice a year.
Squirrels @Rafiq Somani
Suddenly, a pair of Yellow- browed Bulbuls with bright yellow underparts, olive back, and distinct yellow brow hop in and perch on the hanging branch. The beautiful Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher – a striking blue bird with white plumage and a contrasting orange throat- appears. Joining the avian ensemble is a Puff-throated Warbler – with a distinctive puffed-up throat. Other smaller warblers, Red-vented Bulbuls, come alternatively to take a refreshing dip in the water bath, adding to the lively spectacle.
Lunch break and conversations with Ramdas
It’s time for lunch, and we step out of the hideout. The home-cooked lunch consists of sabjis, chappati, dal, rice, papad and raita, which Ramdas’s wife has lovingly made. We befriend other wildlife enthusiasts by comparing notes and bird-watching experiences. I am curious to know how Ramdas developed Tamhini Nature’s Nest. He tells me that he has been a nature and wildlife lover since childhood. Growing up in a village nearby, he often wandered off in the forests for 2-3 days at a stretch as a child. He would spend hours observing nature and its creations, be they plants, birds, or animals. It gave him immense happiness. It was a meditative experience for him.
From Zero to Hero
I ask him if he has a degree or some qualification in natural sciences or environmental studies. Ramdas says none. He tells me academics were never his sweet spot. In fact, just a couple of days back, while cleaning his home, he chanced upon his 10th std report card. He had failed three subjects and recalls being scared of his father and persuading his mother to sign. But there was a bright spot in his marksheet; ‘Birding’ had been mentioned as his hobby. This passion for birding ultimately saw the light of the day as ‘Tamhini Nature’s Nest.’ Ramdas has been organising nature trails for eight years and created this labour of love after lots of research and hard work.
Post Lunch Bird Sightings
We head back to the hideout. It is warm, and there are hardly any bird sightings, and the cameras have fallen silent. Even the birds seem to be enjoying an afternoon siesta. I leave the hideout to get some water and spot a bright red bird sparrow minus in size on a tree. Soon, we see another. Rafiq identifies it as a male Orange Minivet. It grabs a praying mantis in its bill and tears it apart.
The Stage is Set
We head back into the hideout as it is nearing 4:30 pm. Ramdas advises us to stay put in the hideout for the next two hours as the birds will approach the waterhole at the end of the day, as is the norm. Any movement in and out of hideouts can be counterproductive to bird activity. We know we are nearing the finale of our bird-watching experience. The stage is set for these avian beauties to perform, show off their plumage, dance, and sing.
Suddenly, there is a flutter of activity as the sun hangs low in the afternoon sky, casting a warm golden glow over the waterbody landscape. The air is filled with the soothing hum of nature, and as we settle into our hideout, a sense of anticipation envelops us. Little did we know that the next few moments would unfold into a mesmerising avian spectacle.
As we gaze out, a group of Indian Blackbirds catch our attention with their glossy black plumage shimmering in the sunlight. Among them, a juvenile Indian Blackbird hops around, watchful and still, showcasing the innocence of youth. A sudden fluttering movement steals our focus, and we turn to witness the breathtaking agility of a Black-naped Monarch. Its striking black and blue plumage makes it stand out as it darts in and out of the foliage. Our attention then shifts to a family of Yellow-browned Bulbuls who arrive again.
Avian diversity
The avian diversity continues to unfold – Puff-throated Warblers flit about, their subtle colours blending seamlessly with the foliage. A few Red-breasted Flycatchers appear, with their vibrant red plumage adding a burst of colour to the landscape. Another surprise is the Square-tailed Bulbul making a rare descent from the upper mountains, a testament to the wonders that nature can unveil when least expected. Ramdas, who is quietly seated behind, whispers that we are lucky to spot the Square-tailed Bulbul as it hardly comes down.
As the evening progresses, a burst of colours graces the scene with the arrival of an Orange-headed Thrush, its vivid hues a testament to the artistic palette of nature. Once again, the arrival of the elegant Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher adds a touch of azure to the canvas. The Brown-cheeked Fulvetta brings a touch of charm to the ensemble, its small size and subtle colours contributing to the overall serenity of the moment. The sudden arrival of the beautiful rustic-coloured Indian Paradise-Flycatcher female hints at the presence of the elusive male, a creature of unparalleled beauty that could grace the scene at any moment if we are lucky.
Will the Indian Paradise Flycatcher show up?
We are more than happy at the sightings and that too of rare birds which are hard to spot. But the question on everyone’s mind is whether we will be lucky to see the Indian Paradise Flycatcher. The morning appearance was unexpected, so most wildlife enthusiasts hadn’t gotten to photograph it. Additionally, we had seen videos of this beauty by earlier birdwatchers, which whetted our appetites.
Soon, Ramdas rushes in and tells us he has just spotted a male Indian Paradise Flycatcher outside the hideout. It should be coming to the water spot at any moment. As prophesized, it shows up and gracefully sits on a horizontal pole over the water spot. Its white tail sways, and it quickly dives into the water body and swirls back up on the pole. It does a repeat, as everyone is busy clicking and recording the bird. Imagine just 15 feet away, we see this saga of birds unfolding in front of our eyes. Without a doubt, the male Indian Paradise Flycatcher is the show-stopper.
Happy and Content
It is now dark and too difficult to photograph any birds. We pack up and exit the hideout content at the bird sightings both in terms of numbers and rarity. Everyone is beaming and smiling from ear to ear. We thank Ramdas, who arrives with a thermos of tea. He is equally happy that we have spotted so many birds and are overjoyed. One man’s labour of love has brought so much joy to birding enthusiasts and a safe haven for countless birds and other wildlife.
The Final Thoughts
Tamhini, with its lush green mountains, rich biodiversity, and exotic birds, has left us awed and amazed. It is truly a paradise for novice and serious birders, wildlife photographers, and nature enthusiasts alike. A big shout out to Ramdas from Tamhini Nature’s Nest for such an excellent setup! As we concluded our mesmerizing day and journeyed back home, Rafiq shared a thoughtful insight that resonated deeply with me and is worth highlighting here: While we marveled at the beauty of Tahmini forest and its untouched surroundings, it is imperative for Ramdas and all the fellow birding enthusiasts visiting this place to be responsible and actively protect this delicate ecosystem. Respecting established birding protocols is essential to maintain the tranquility of their habitat. We need to preserve the pristine beauty of Tahmini forest for the enjoyment and wonder of generations to come.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: The nearest airport is at Pune, with connectivity to major cities in India. From there you can drive to Tamhini.
Distances: Pune-Tamhini: 60 km or 1 hour 30 mins. Mumbai-Tamhini: 156 km or 3 hours 30 mins.
Where to stay: Tamhini’s Nature Nest has decent accommodation, especially for those who enjoy staying in tents and simple, no-nonsense places in the wilderness. The toilets are clean – a good surprise and a rarity for such places, and the arrangements are simple and functional with home-cooked food. There are several up-market resorts and hotels in Mulshi too. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort. You can even do a morning-evening trip if you don’t want to stay in Tamhini.
Contact details: Tamini Nature’s Nest: 094053 64071 Email: [email protected]
Travel Tip: Avoid wearing colourful clothes, and it’s best that you wear green or earth colours. Carry your binoculars and cameras with batteries charged.