The two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Agra are the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. The Agra Fort, despite its magnificence and brilliance, has always been in the shadow of its more illustrious sibling, the Taj Mahal, which receives more footfalls. But do pay a visit to the Agra Fort and the numerous structures within it and you will be suitably rewarded.
History of the Agra Fort
The Agra Fort was built by Rajput king Raja Badal Singh. The fort has witnessed several changes of hands from the Lodhi Emperors to the Mughal kings to the British Empire. Akbar shifted his base from Delhi to Agra and built the red sandstone fort. His son Shah Jahan favoured marble over red sandstone and constructed several marble structures inside it. The consequence is that when you visit the fort a mix of red and white structures impress you.
Amar Singh Gate
After visiting the Taj Mahal, we head to the Agra Fort, barely 3.5 km away. Our guide Adesh Mishra promises to show us around and share the details of the fort. The fort has four gates or grand entrances, out of which only the Amar Singh Gate is open to the public. Emperor Akbar used Delhi Gate the main entrance. Since the Agra Fort is under the Indian military, it is out of bounds for tourists.
After entering from the Amar Singh Gate, we see another gateway that still has some of the vintage tiles in geometric and floral patterns. As we enter the second gate, we see an elevation that is a steep walk. Boulders were rolled down this slope to catch the enemy unaware.
Jahangiri Mahal
We next head to Jahangiri Mahal or the Palace of Jahangir. In front of the palace gate, a 5 feet tall monolithic tub called Jahangir’s Tub is in the courtyard. I begin wondering why an emperor would want to take a bath in a tub in a square and in view of everyone? Our guide clarifies that it was earlier inside the palace but later brought out to where it stands now.
The Jahangiri palace is made in a fusion of Islamic and Rajasthani architectural styles- geometrical patterns, latticework, ornamental pillars and so on. Jharokhas opened to a courtyard through which the women got a sneak peek at the goings-on in the palace. We pass several rooms, which are stark compared to the earlier section of the palace.
Khas Mahal
We enter the Khas Mahal that was built by Shah Jahan, who favoured marble over sandstone. The entire marble structure has stunning inlay work. Light trickles through the jhali or latticework of the windows. The arch above the windows had cells with floral patterns, their silhouettes standing out against the translucent marble. Every inch of the Khas Mahal is intricately carved, and we can’t help but marvel at its exquisiteness.
Jahanara and Roshanara Pavilions
Two pavilions on either side of the Khas Mahal are called Jahanara and Roshanara Pavilion. They are named after Shah Jahan’s daughters, explains our guide. He then points to an optical illusion here. When you stand close to the verandah, the Taj Mahal appears at a distance. But when you step back, it appears larger and closer because it appears enclosed in the pavilion’s arch! The roofs of the two pavilions are today made of copper but originally were in gold. Because several dynasties were constantly taking over the fort, the gold covering were priced collection and stolen, explains our guide.
Anguri Baug
The Anguri Baug or Garden of Grapes is adjacent to Khas Mahal. We could still see some grapevines growing in the geometrical patterns of the garden. The Zenana or ladies’ enclosure are on the periphery of the garden. The women met in the gardens, danced and chatted in the earlier times.
Sheesh Mahal
The Sheesh Mahal or Palace of Mirrors is out of bounds for tourists. Ornamental mirrors adorned the palace, and when candle lights were lit, their reflection in the mirrors illuminated the palace. I could only relate it Anarkali aka Madhubala dancing to ‘Pyar Kiya to Darna Kya’ song from the magnum opus Mughal-e-Azam. The movie set was erected using Belgian mirrors, and the Sheesh Mahal of Lahore Fort was its inspiration.
Musamman Burj
The Musamman Burj or Shah Burj is another eloquently decorated structure in the Agra Fort. It has been barricaded, but one can still see it from a distance. It was here that Emperor Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb. He would fondly gaze at the Taj Mahal, which he had so painstakingly made for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The Shah Burj has a fountain at the entrance, and its walls and pillars have beautiful marble inlay work as we had seen at the Taj Mahal earlier in the day.
Diwan-I-Khas
We next head to the Diwan-I-Khas or the Hall of Private Audience. This marble structure made up of an inner chamber and outer verandah with pillars it is beyond bounds for public. The emperor had his confidential meetings with dignitaries and ambassadors here. The famous Peacock Throne was kept here before it was shifted to Delhi Red Fort. Subsequently it was plundered by Persian ruler Nadir Shah and taken to Iran. The terrace in front of the Diwan-I-Khas has two thrones one in black slate and the other in white marble. The white throne belonged to Jehangir and the other for the visiting dignitaries.
Macchi Bhavan
Below the terrace of the Diwan-I-Khas is the Macchi Bhavan. This courtyard had fountains and pools with fish (macchi), and the women from the harem socialized here.
Nagina Masjid
The Nagina Masjid where the women assembled for prayers is what we see next. Made in marble, it has three domes and is plain.
Diwan-I-Aam
The Diwani-I-Aam or Hall of Public Audience is where the emperor met the commoners and listened to their woes and appeals. A triple-arched marble chamber called Takht-e-Murassa, or Throne Room, is where the king sat. He could watch the audience assembled in the multi pillared hall from here. The carvings on the Throne Room walls, ceiling and pillars are spectacular. Our guide asks us to clap at specific locations in the hall, and we hear an echo. Even when one whispers at particular points in the hall, it can be heard clearly from a distance! The planning and detailing that went into the hall’s making ensured that even the slightest whisper or muffle could be heard clearly.
Moti Masjid
Moti Masjid is close to the Diwan-I-Am but is not open to the public. We can only see the marble domes of the mosque peeping from sandstone walls.
Boosting Agra Tourism
There are numerous other structures within Agra Fort, but our guide explains that less than 50 per cent of the fort is open to the general public. The rest of the fort is under the Indian military. He echoed the sentiments of other tourist guides and ASI who feel that the other parts of the fort must be thrown open to the public to boost Agra Tourism. Most tourists come from Delhi on a day trip and return the same day. If the entire fort were open to the public, it would take longer to explore it, and tourists would then stay overnight, which would help the local economy further.
The Agra Fort steeped in history and with all its gems is worthy of a visit. Overshadowed by the Taj Mahal, it can definitely benefit from greater tourist traffic.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Agra or Delhi
Distances: Delhi-Agra: 245 km (4 ½ hours by road via Taj/Yamuna Expressway)
Where to stay: we stayed at the ITC Mughal. You can do a net search for various options depending on budget and comfort.
Travel Tip: Do visit the Itimad-ud-Daulah and Akbar’s Tomb too. Located 35 km from Agra is Fatehpur Sikri, a UNESCO World Heritage Site worth visiting.
Guide for Taj Mahal: Adesh Mishra 9837140026