Bhubaneshwar, the capital of Odisha state in the West of India, boasts numerous temples dating back to the 3rd Century BC. Numerous attractions are nearby, like Udaygiri, Khandagiri Caves, and Dhauli Shanti Stupa. Bhubaneshwar is also popular among tourists because of its proximity to Puri, home to the famous Jagannath Temple and Konark, known for the world-famous Sun Temple. Bhubaneshwar, along with Puri and Konark, form the golden triangle of Odisha. The Odisha Tourism Development Corporation is trying hard to promote the state. There are a series of articles on Odisha. This one will focus on exploring Bhubaneshwar. Read on to know how we went about exploring Bhubaneshwar.
Day 1
Ekamra Kshetra
We begin exploring Bhubaneshwar with a visit to the Ekamra Kshetra in the old city of Bhubaneshwar, which boasts sandstone temples, water bodies and smaller shrines. It contains several ancient temples of varying sizes, from the colossal Lingaraj Temple, which is 128 feet high, to miniature ones on the roads and along the banks of ancient tanks. Bhubaneshwar is called the Temple City because 700 temples once stood here, some of which go back to the 3rd Century BC. There is a separate article on this, which you can read here.
Udaygiri and Khandagiri Caves
At a short distance from Bhubaneshwar are the Udaygiri and Khandagiri caves on opposite hills. After visiting the Ekamra Kshetra, we head to explore the caves. They are Jain caves, which date back to the 2nd Century BC. Udaygiri Hill has eighteen caves, while Khandagiri Hill has fifteen. There is a separate article on Udaygiri and Khandagiri Caves, which you can read here.
Odisha State Tribal Museum
After a lunch break at four in the evening, I head to the Odisha State Tribal Museum. Odisha has more than 62 tribal communities, each with its unique dressing style, art forms, festivals, dances, and music. If you want a glimpse into the tribals’ lives, then this is a place you must visit. You can even see artists at work and pick some tribal art from the souvenir shop. The museum is divided into five galleries.
Personal Adornments
I begin by exploring the Personal Adornments gallery, where the jewellery and adornments are displayed. Necklaces, neckbands, anklets, bangles, and waist chains made with beads, coins and silver are on display. In glass cases are life-size models of tribal couples dressed in traditional costumes.
Display of Tribal Costumes and Jewellery at Odisha Tribal Museum @Shameera Somani
Tribal textiles, Personal Belongings and Paintings
The following gallery has tribal textiles unique to tribal communities on display. There are also life-size models of couples dressed in traditional costumes here. The personal belongings of tribals, like combs, wine and tobacco pipes, are displayed. Tribal paintings like Gond, Santal, Juang and many more are waiting to be admired.
Dharua Textiles and Santal Paintings @Shameera Somani
Tribal Gond and Juang Paintings @Shameera Somani
Hunting and Fishing Implements, Weapons of Offence and Defence
Since the tribals live in forests and close to nature, they have their indigenous tools for hunting, fishing and defence. The following gallery has an array of implements like cane baskets, nets for fishing, bows and arrows, knives, guns and lots more. An artist demonstrates paddy craft.
Household Objects and Agricultural Implements
Since farming is one of the primary means of livelihood, various agricultural implements are on display, like hoes, spades, sickles, cowbells, etc. Household equipment like ladles, baskets and lots more. An artist demonstrates the Sahora Painting, which resembles the Warli Painting of Maharashtra.
Household Objects and Agricultural Implements and Sahora Painting @Shameera Somani
Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Products
This gallery has the dance costumes of various tribal communities. Shells, coins, mirrors, and peacock feathers embellish the costumes. You have them all, from stick musical instruments to flutes, drums, string instruments, and blow instruments. Dhokra sculptures of animals and human figures are made with brass, bronze and copper.
Dance and Musical Instruments and Dhokra Products @Shameera Somani
There is even a mini movie theatre where tribal community films are screened periodically. I check whether there are any dance performances lined up but no luck. I visit the small souvenir shop, which has tribal paintings and artefacts and numerous other things on sale. Since I plan to visit the Ekamra Haat, I don’t make any purchases, hoping to have more options at the haat.
Ekamra Haat
If you want to see Odisha’s handicrafts and artwork, visiting Ekamra Haat is a must-do. After visiting the Odisha State Tribal Museum, I head to the Ekamra Haat to shop for some handmade items and see artwork. There are stalls where artisans sell handmade products like- Filigree silverwork jewellery, applique patchwork, dhokra artefacts and jewellery, coir and golden grasswork, pattachitra paintings, handlooms, and textiles.
Ekamra Haat @Shameera Somani
Vocal for Local
I am awed and amazed at the variety of tribal artwork and handmade products available at highly competitive rates. On Instagram and other e-commerce platforms, these same items sell at three times the rate. These artists have travelled to Bhubaneshwar from villages and tribal areas. As a macrame artist, I know the number of hours that go into making handmade pieces. Often, clients find them expensive compared to cheap, machine-made, mass-produced products. It is vital that we support these artisans. I purchase three Tussar silk dupattas with block print and tribal painting, dhokra jewellery, golden grass boxes, and other knick knacks. I return to our hotel with a bag of handmade goodies and a smile.
Applique Work and Golden Grass Items at Ekamra Haat @Shameera Somani
Day 2
Rameswara Temple
The following day, after lunch, we visit the Rameswara Temple, which is two kilometres from Lingaraja Temple. The temple built in the 13th Century is dedicated to Lord Shiva. But then why is it called Rameswara Temple, one might wonder. Legend has it that when Lord Rama and Sita returned from Lanka after their victory over Ravan, Sita expressed a desire to worship Lord Shiva. Lord Rama built a lingam at this site for worship at her request. Hence, the temple’s name is Rameswara Temple.
The temple is also called Mausima Temple. ‘Mausima’ means ‘maternal aunt’ of Lord Lingaraj. Just as there is a Rath Yatra for Lord Jagannath and his siblings in Puri, similarly in Bhubaneshwar, the Rukuna Rath Yatra is for Chandrashekar (Lord Lingaraj’s representative), Rukmini and Basudev. The faithful take these three deities’ bronze idols from Lingaraja Temple to Mausima Temple, where they stay for four days.
In a well-maintained garden, we see the Rameswara Temple. It has a curvilinear Rekha Deul/Main Temple and a Jagamohan/Assembly Hall next to it. There is even a square-shaped water tank close by with steps leading to it.
Laxmaneswara, Bharateswara and Shatrughaneswara Temple
We see another group of temples just across the road. There are three similar-looking temples in the same complex built around the 6th Century AD. The temples are named after Lord Rama’s brothers. The one on the left is Laxmaneswara Mandir, the middle temple is Bharateswara Temple, and the one on the right is Shatrughaneswara Temple.
Lamaneshwara, Bharateshwara and Shatruganeshwara Temples @Rafiq Somani
Dhauli Shanti Stupa
We next drive to Dhauli Hill, which is 7 km from Bhubaneshwar, to see the Shanti Stupa or the Peace Pagoda. Legend has it that King Ashoka fought the famous Kalinga War here. Seeing the bloodshed, saddened Ashoka and he adopted the path to peace and embraced Buddhism. On this same site of the Kalinga War, the Odisha Government and Kalinga Nippon Sangha built the Shanti Stupa in 1972.
We reach midway to Dauli Hill, park our car, and then climb up to see the Shanti Stupa. It is late afternoon, and scores of tourists are flocking to see the Stupa. The Stupa in white is a dome structure with a staircase leading up to it. Flanked on either side of the stairs are pedestals with lions. The Stupa has four enormous statues of Lord Buddha. Two statues have Buddha sitting in padmasan on a lotus, and his eyes closed as if in deep meditation; only the hand gestures vary. A third statute is of Buddha in a sleeping posture. The fourth statute has Buddha standing with his right arm raised and a halo behind him. All around the Stupa’s circular facade are panels depicting various stories from Buddha’s life.
Sitting statutes of Buddha at Dhauli Stupa @Rafiq Somani
Standing and Reclining Buddha Statutes at Dhauli Stupa @Rafiq Somani
Our two-day stay in Bhubaneshwar has come to an end. We next visit Pipli and Raghurajpur Art Villages enroute to Puri. You can read about these art villages here.
Final Word
Bhubaneshwar, with its numerous temples in Ekamra Kshetra, museums which provide a glimpse into tribal lives, its well-developed infrastructure has impressed us. Add to it the Udaygiri and Khandagiri Caves and Dauli Shanti Stupa, which are in close proximity. Another feather in Bhubaneshwar’s cap is that Puri and Konark, known for their temples and beaches, are within driving distance. Odisha is truly a hidden gem of India waiting to be explored and deserves greater appreciation.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Bhubaneshwar has the Bhubaneswar Biju Patnaik International Airport, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Where to stay: We stayed at The Crown, Bhubaneshwar-IHCLSeleQtions. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Travel Tip: The mornings are the best time to visit the Ekamra Kshetra. Ekamra Walks (https://www.ekamra-walks.com/) are organised on Sundays, so try registering for them, or you will have to do it on your own as we did. Avoid visiting the caves in the afternoon because it can be scorching. (We had time constraints, so we ended up seeing them in the afternoon) Wear comfortable shoes as there will be considerable walking and climbing. Please carry water bottles to keep yourself hydrated.
Odisha Driver: Pintu-7978630261. He was not just our driver but also unofficial guide explaining the details of the monuments/places and narratives behind them.
Travel Planning Help: Om Leisure Holidays helped us plan this trip.