Indore in Madhya Pradesh state is a buzzing city aptly called its state’s commercial capital. Known earlier for its textile trading, the city has made enormous progress in economic, social and cultural domains. The city gets its name from the Indeshwar temple built in the 18th century. The Maratha Peshwas handed it over to Malhar Rao Holkar from the Holkar dynasty. The Holkar Queen Ahiliya Bai has been instrumental in planning and building the city.Read on to know how we went about exploring Indore.
Confession Time
I have a confession: when I was told there was a possibility of visiting Indore, it didn’t excite me. My impression of Indore was ‘a tier two city in Madhya Pradesh.’ I began exploring the places close by that would interest me, and Mandu and Maheshwar piqued my curiosity. The former because it is on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage list, and the latter for its sarees. Since Indore is the gateway to these, I thought we would explore Indore just ‘by the way.’ But Indore surprised us with its history, architecture, palaces and, of course, its street food. Improved infrastructure constituting clean roads, better connectivity to pilgrimage sites around it, electric rickshaws and clean roads are other feathers in Indore’s cap.
Checking in
An early morning flight brings us to Indore, a little sleepy-eyed and sleep-deprived. We drive past the city and, en route, spot the Rajwada palace, chhatris, and finally reach our hotel. We check in to our hotel, nap, have breakfast, and then explore Indore. I brief our driver on what we want to see, and he gladly obliges.
Krishnabai Holkar Chatri
The first place we visit is the Krishnabai Holkar Chatri on the Kahn or Saraswati River banks. This place has cenotaphs erected in memory of the Holkar rulers. Chhatris or umbrellas or canopies cover the cenotaphs. We enter the complex divided into two halves, each housing a structure comprising what looks like a temple with an adjoining hall with pillars. Both the cenotaphs are made in stone carved exteriors and columns. At the platform’s base, we can see carvings of what look like Maratha soldiers, complete with robes, turbans, and weapon in hand.
Details of carving at Krishnabai Holkar Chatri @Rafiq Somani
On climbing the stairs, we are led into a central hall with several carved pillars. One of the halls has walls with lattice work/ jhalis with a statue of Nandi bull in front. However, what surprises us is to see the hall littered with thrash as the homeless have made the cenotaphs their homes. We see families lazing around, college-going students clicking selfies, vagabonds sleeping and are alarmed at the sorry situation. Indeed, our monuments that are testimonials of our rich heritage and history deserve better upkeep.
Rajwada or Holkar Palace
Rajwada or Holkar Palace is in the heart of Indore. We are impressed by this seven-story structure that is the pride of the Holkar dynasty and Indore. The external façade is freshly painted with yellow and brown. The palace is a fusion of Maratha, Mughal and French architectural styles. The lower three floors are made of stone, while the upper four are made of wood. We buy entry tickets and find ourselves in a courtyard surrounded by the palace on all four sides. A flight of stairs takes us to the Darbar Hall, which has a series of pillars, jharokas, and windows overlooking the courtyard and surroundings. Chandeliers hang from the ceilings, reminiscing of the glory this hall must have experienced in a bygone era.
We explore various floors of the Rajwada, which remind us of Shaniwar Wada and other wadas in Pune due to the similarity in the Maratha style of architecture. Stone and wood structures with wooden pillars, arched balconies and windows. A sound and light show is also planned in the evenings here, which you may want to witness.
Laal Bagh Palace
The Laal Bagh Palace is the jewel in the crown of Indore. This monument will make you feel like you are abroad, probably in France or Europe, as its architectural design is heavily influenced by the styles there. The palace is located amid sprawling gardens. The Gates of Buckingham Palace inspire the entrance gate. We enter the gates, and the drive till we reach the palace reminds us of the kind one sees in movies. I see butterflies fluttering around flowers blooming in the gardens as my husband, Rafiq, fetches the entry tickets. As soon as we enter the palace, we notice the stained glass paintings over the windows in vibrant colours.
Amalgamation of Renaissance and Baroque styles
Built in phases between the 18th and 19th centuries, the palace is an amalgamation of Renaissance and Baroque styles. The Darbar hall is exquisite, and it was here that the guests were received and meetings and discussions held. The Banquet hall has a 40-seater T-shaped table with chandeliers hanging over it. Next, we enter the triple height Ballroom with wood flooring and two mount tigers in a showcase.
Dining Rooms
Adjoining the ballroom are dining rooms, one for the women and another for men, in a fusion of Mughal and Rajput styles devoid of any furniture. The Western-style dining room is carpeted with wooden tables and chairs, chandeliers indicating that it was used when foreign guests came over.
The King’s Office, with wooden bookshelves and a grand desk, is elegant and classy. There is even a council hall. But the piece de resistance is the Crown Hall, inspired by the palaces of British royals. The painted ceiling, stucco work, and ornate furniture are spectacular. There is a sitting room in front of the Crown Hall. The guests waited here before they had meeting with the King.
Gardens
The second level of the palace, which has the bedrooms, is inaccessible since it is under renovation. We exit the palace and find ourselves in the gardens with several statues, one of which is Queen Victoria. We had been transported to some foreign locale for less than a euro thanks to the Laal Bagh Palace. This palace should be on your must-visit list when in Indore.
Statues in garden of Laal Bagh Palace @Rafiq Somani
Kaach Mandir
The Jain community has a substantial presence in Indore, and the Jain Kaach Mandir bears testimony to this. Sir Seth Hukumchand Jain built the temple in 1903, reminiscent of the Sheesh Mahal. The entire temple is made with mosaic glass on not just the walls and ceilings but even the floors, doors and paintings! In a glass box are statues of the Jain tirthankars in black onyx. We see the faithful praying with their eyes closed. Photography inside the temple is prohibited. However, too many hoardings, overhanging electric wires steal some of the charm of the Kaach Mandir.
Bada Ganpati Mandir
At a short distance from Kaach Mandir is Bada Ganpati, supposedly the world’s largest Ganesh idol! It was a coincidence that we visited this temple during the Ganesh Chaturthi festival.
Gandhi Hall
It is also called the Town Hall, which was built in 1904. This historical building in Indo-Sarcenic architectural style is made of white and red stones. The town hall has a four-faced Clock Tower or Ghanta Ghar. We end up seeing this structure from the outside. Our driver informs us that it is used for meetings, exhibitions and official functions.
Indore Street Food
It is now close to lunchtime, and we head to Chappan Dukkan (56 shops) street to savour some local delicacies. This street has became a no car zone and was redeveloped during the Covid -19 pandemic and became a smart food street. It is the pride of the locals and constitutes 40% of Indore’s food market turnover.
Variety of Street Food
The Indories love food, be it namkeens (salted savouries), kachori, samosa, daal pakwan or daal bafla. There is a separate article on Indore street food, which you can read here. We relish the six-flavoured pani puri and khopra pattice topped with sweet, tangy and spicy chutneys. We are accustomed to eating spicy food, but here in Indore, we found the kachories and several dishes too spicy. So make sure you have some kulfi or shikhanji to cool off.
The other place where the locals and tourists flock for street food is Sarafa Bazar. It is a jewellery market by the day, which transforms into a food court by night. It reminds us of the Manek Chowk of Ahmedabad, which houses jewellery stores which shut in the evenings. The entire square turns into a khav galli or food street at sundown.
Indore is the gateway to Ujjain and Omkareshwar, popular pilgrimage sites. If you plan to visit Mandu and Maheshwar, then Indore will most likely be where you will take a flight to. With its opulent palaces steeped in history and street food, Indore had left an impression on us.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Indore has the Devi Ahiliyabai Holkar Airport, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Where to stay: We stayed at the Indore Marriot Hotel. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.