Maheshwar, situated on the banks of the Narmada River, is known as a pilgrimage centre and also for its temple fort complex and handwoven Maheshwari sarees. This city has also been mentioned in the Ramayan and Mahabharat. Rani Ahilyabai Holkar worked diligently for the welfare and upliftment of the people of Maheshwar and has been instrumental in introducing the famed sarees. A picture of the Narmada Ghat with its imposing temple fort complex allured us to Maheshwar. Read on to know how we went about exploring Maheshwar.
After exploring Mandu, we drive to Maheshwar, some 40 km away. Our driver drops us near the temple fort complex. Walking towards the fort, we notice the locals sell religious items like rudraksha beads, conch shells, malas, miniature shivlings, and other knick knacks on makeshift stalls.
Stalls while approaching the fort @Rafiq Somani
Maheshwar Fort
The Maheshwar Fort, or the Holkar or Ahilya Fort, is on a hill and faces the Narmada River. There is no clarity as to when the fort was first constructed. But during the reign of Ahilyabai Holkar (1765-95), she commissioned several changes to it and is responsible for essentially what we see today.
Vithoji Chhatri
A flight of stairs takes us to the courtyard, on the left of which is a chhatri or cenotaph. The cenotaph is dedicated to Vithoji Rao, the younger brother of Yashwant Rao Holkar. He was trampled by an elephant in 1801, and his ashes are placed here. The Vithoji Chhatri is a dome-shaped structure with intricate carvings and ornamentation on its exterior facades and interiors. Elephants, peacocks, flowers, and human figures adorn the external façade of the cenotaph. We climb the steps leading to the inside of the chattri, which has a sanctum with a male figure flanked by two female figures on either side. A Nandi bull faces the sanctum. Slots to hold diyas or lights are carved on the exterior walls of the sanctum.
The inner sanctum and niches of Vithoji Chatri @Rafiq Somani
Ahilyeshwar Mahadev Temple
We next visit the Ahilyeshwar Mahadev Temple which is bang opposite the Vithoji Chatri. This is a cenotaph cum temple and is larger in dimension. It is dedicated to Ahilya Bai Holkar and was commissioned by her daughter. Built on a plinth carved with elephants, geometrical patterns and floral designs. The inner sanctum houses a shivling and an idol of Ahilya Bai Holkar. The courtyard has a deep stambha or a column with slots on which lamps could be lit. The temple’s periphery has corridors with arches from which we can see the river.
Inner Sanctum of Ahilyeshwar Temple @Rafiq Somani
Nandi Bull and Deep Stambha of Ahilyeshwar Temple @Rafiq Somani
We exit the temple and descend the stairs to the Narmada Ghat. We turn back and see the entire fort and temple complex behind us. This panoramic view of the fort had drawn us to Maheshwar. No words can describe the joy that we experience. The photo from a travel brochure has finally come to life as we gape and admire the magnificent vistas of the fort. I beam from ear to ear, trying to admire every detail of the façade- arches, jharokas, temple tops, ramparts of the fort… I am spellbound and awestruck.
Boat ride on Narmada
We hire a boat that takes us on a short boat ride over the river. Rafiq tries to get the entire width of the imposing fort in a single frame with the Narmada in the foreground as the gentle wind caresses us. We are creating memories that we will look back on with a sense of joy and contentment.
Rajwada
We exit the temple fort complex, and a steep climb takes us to the Rajwada or the Royal Palace. We see a wada-like structure in front of us as we enter the courtyard. It reminds of us of the wadas of Pune in Maharashtra state. The similarity can be attributed to the fact that Rani Ahiliya Bai Holkar was from Maharashtra before she got married into the Holkar family. It is a ground plus-one structure with wooden columns, brick and cement construction, and sloping roofs covered with brown clay tiles. A statute of an elephant and horse and a palanquin are on display. My husband, Rafiq, draws my attention to the saree-clad imposing Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar statue in a garden enclosure.
We enter the palace with a courtyard in the centre flanked by the palace on all four sides. A fountain is in the centre, with some trees and small statues. On one of the ground floor verandas are mattresses covered in white sheets with a picture of Ahilya Bai Holkar. A large painting of the Narmada River with the Holkar Fort is on one of the walls. Some statues and artillery, like swords and shields, are on display in the other verandas.
Inside Rajwada @Rafiq Somani
It is past lunchtime, and we head to the Labooz Café for lunch. We order a simple vegetable thali, refreshing beverages. The Café belongs to the Holkars and is tastefully done up. The food is simple and delicious.
Rehwa Society
It is time for us to visit the Rehwa Society, a registered not for profit society run by Richard and Sally Holkar, which has been instrumental in preserving the weaving tradition of the Maheshwari Sarees. Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar had invited weavers from Surat and Mandu to teach the locals weaving to ensure their livelihood and economic stability. The subsequent generations of the Holkars continue supporting the weavers, run the Ahilya Bai School and are keeping the craft alive.
Process of making Maheshwari Sarees
I had written to them requesting a visit, and the society promptly responded with contact details. The receptionist graciously welcomes us and takes us around to see the entire process of making the sarees. The yarns are dyed, dried and then spun with hand on a charkha. Next, depending on the type of pattern and colour combination, the loom is set up, and sarees are made on the handloom. The combination of silk and cotton threads with distinct borders and pallu with five straps is the signature style of Maheswari sarees.
Dyeing and Drying of Yarns @Rafiq Somani
Several women artisans are engrossed in weaving the sarees. If the yarn breaks or an error occurs, they need to unravel the fabric and start again painstakingly. Making these sarees is a labourious process which takes several days to complete. The sarees cost starting from Rs. 4000 onwards, depending upon the details and craftsmanship.
Weaving Unit of Rehwa Society @Rafiq Somani
Maheshwari Saree Weaving @Rafiq Somani
Shopping in Maheshwar
Next, we head to some of the local shops selling numerous textiles of Madhya Pradesh like Bagru print, Chanderi, Maheshwari and others. I enter a small shop called Maheshwari Weaves. A middle-aged lady welcomes me and explains that her son will show me around. Less than a week back, flash floods had raised water levels of the Narmada in a matter of hours by several feet. Water had entered the weavers’ homes and weavers’ colony. She sorrowfully explains how weavers had to dismantle 300 sarees on looms and had suffered massive damage.
Vocal for Local
Soon, her son Rahat Ansari enters the shop. He shows us some exclusive hand block-printed Maheshwari suits, Bagh print suits, sarees and so on. He patiently explains the details of each as his mom proudly tells us that Rahat has even been featured in a documentary on Maheshwar. I pick three suits and wish them well. As a Macrame artist myself, I know the struggles of making handmade products. Customers rarely realise that the high costs of handcrafted items are justified, considering the number of hours it takes to make one product. Please do your bit by supporting local artisans trying to sustain a local art form for centuries.
It is time for us to bid goodbye to Maheshwar. The town with its history, the fort temple complex next to the Narmada River and the sarees has left an impression on us. If you are someone who loves the simple no-fuss holidays with some heritage coupled with retail shopping therapy thrown in, then Maheshwar will steal your heart.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Indore’s Devi Ahillyabai Holkar Airport is the nearest, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Distances: Indore to Maheshwar- 95 km or 2 hours.
Mandu to Maheshwar- 40 km or 1 hour.
Where to stay: We did a day trip to Maheshwar, so we didn’t end up staying In Maheshwar. Madhya Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation’s MPT Narmada is a possible option. Parts of the Ahilya Fort have been converted to a hotel. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Contact for Sarees:
Rehwa Society: 8120001389 Maheshwar Weaves: 8982598322
Places close by to Maheshwar: You can explore Indore, Ujjain, Omkareshwar and/or Mandu along with Maheshwar.