Mandu, in the Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh, is known for its history, stunning architecture and natural beauty. It was once the capital of the Malwa Sultanate, and hence, there are many historical monuments spread across the length and breadth of Mandu. The monuments are divided into groups, and it’s best you explore them groupwise so that you save on travel time. We were mesmerised by the history and architecture of Mandu. It is a hidden gem not explored by many in Madhya Pradesh. Most visitors to this state visit Khajuraho, Bhimbetka, Sanchi, or the wildlife sanctuaries. We had seen the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Madhya Pradesh earlier, but this time, it was Mandu and Maheshwar that we had set our eyes on. Read on to know how we went about exploring Mandu – Rewa Kund Group Monuments.
Groups of Monuments in Mandu
The monuments in Mandu are divided into the following groups:
- Rewa Kund Group of Monuments
- The Sagar Talao Group of Monuments
- The Group between Sagar Talao and the Village
- The Group near Mandu Village
- The Royal Enclosure
- Miscellaneous Scattered Monuments
This article will only focus on the Rewa Kund Group of Monuments.
Arriving in Mandu
We leave Indore in the evening and drive to Mandu. It is late evening by the time we reach Mandu. In the darkness, our driver points to the ramparts and gates of the Mandu Fort. We head towards MPT Malwa and, en route, see some illuminated monuments. We check into our resort and grab some dinner. The hotel staff give us the number of a guide, Javed. Over the phone, we decide to meet the following day after breakfast at the hotel lobby.
Love Story of Rani Rupmati and Baz Bahadur
The next morning, our guide meets us in the lobby. We explain to him what we want to explore and set off first to explore the Rewa Kund Group of Monuments. Javed, our guide, narrates the love story of Rani Rupmati and Baz Bahadur. One day, Baz Bahadur set out to hunt in the forest of Mandu. He heard a melodious voice in the woods and drifted towards it. He found a stunning maiden singing and was mesmerised by her beauty and voice. She was none other than Rupmati, the daughter of Rajput chief Dhan Singh of the village of Dharmpuri.
So smitten was Baz Bahadur by Rupmati that he proposed marriage to her and asked her to accompany him to Mandu. She agreed to the union on the condition that she would live in Mandu only if she would have a daily darshan/vision of the Narmada River, which she worshipped. Baz Bahadur was left with no choice and then built the Rewa Kund in Mandu, which received the waters of the Narmada. He also constructed a pavilion on a hill, so that Rupmati could see the Narmada in the distance. They were married, and the pavilions and palace were filled with music, poetry, and singing. So popular was their love story that it was also made into a Hindi movie ‘Rani Rupmati’ starring Nirupa Roy and Bharat Bhushan, with the famous song ‘ Aa Laut ke aaja mere meet…’ informs our guide.
Rupmati’s Palace/ Pavilion
We walk uphill to Rani Rupmati’s pavilion. It’s a two-storey structure with a terrace. Javed explains that the structure was built in two or three stages. The palace was earlier a military centre, and since it was on a hill, it served as a watchtower. The Paramars had built the ground floor to accommodate the soldiers. Baz Bahadur then added another floor on top of this. It was no wonder he could complete the construction of the Rupmati pavilion in a short time rather than building from scratch.
We enter the palace which has several passages with low roofs. The sunlight entering through the series of arches makes a fantastic photograph. We head to the top floor, which has a manicured garden. We can see the sweeping views of the Nimar Valley and Baz Bahadur’s Palace. On the terrace are two chatris or hemispherical domes. From here, Rani Rupmati got a glimpse of the Narmada River and paid respects. Javed shows us a water cistern on the lower floors. He explains how rainwater harvesting was practised in earlier times. Through a channel, the water from the terrace was collected and stored in the water cistern.
Passages inside Rani Rupmati’s Pavilion @Rafiq Somani
Baz Bahadur’s Palace
We exit Rupmati’s Pavillion and next head to Baz Bahadur’s Palace. It was constructed in the 16th century by Nasiruddin Khilji. We enter the palace and find ourselves amid manicured lawns. Javed guides us as we enter a courtyard with several rooms and corridors on all four sides. We head to another courtyard, which has a water body in the centre with pillared corridors and rooms on four sides. The waterbody has steps leading to it and is open to the sky. Next, we head to the terrace with two baradaris or 12 pillared pavilions with chatris/ umbrellas. From here, we can see the Rupamati Palace on the hill.
Acoustics of an Ancient Telephone
Javed takes us to one of the rooms. Since both Baz Bahadur and Rupmati were fond of music and poetry, the rooms in the palace had an amazing acoustics system. He asks me to stand in one of the corners and stands in another corner. Javed whispers a couple of words in his corner, which I can clearly hear in my corner—a telephone system of the bygone era.
Ancient Telephone System @Rafiq Somani
Tansen and Rupmati’s Sing- off
He then narrates a folklore: Tansen, a famous singer in Emperor Akbar’s Navratna, once visited the Baz Bahadur Palace. There was a sing-off between Tansen and Rupmati in the room. No mikes, no fancy sound systems. The rooms were constructed so that the singer’s voice reverberated in the palace. Javed sings a couple of Hindi movie songs, ‘ Vadiya Mera Daman’ and ‘Naam Gum Jayega.’ Hearing him sing, tourists wander into the room. We are all mesmerised by Javed’s singing and the acoustics of the room. One can only imagine the atmosphere created when musical and singing events must have been planned in the ancient times.
The End of the Love Story
Javed then narrates the end of Baz Bahadur and Rani Rupmati’s love story. Did they live happily ever after? Turns out that Emperor Akbar’s General Adam Khan had set his eyes on Rupmati. He wanted her to be part of his harem, which Rupmati didn’t favour. She ended her life by swallowing a diamond in this Baz Mahal to save her honour. Thus, the saga of Baz Bahadur and Rani Rupmati came to an end.
Rewa Kund
The Rewa Kund is a waterbody close to the Baz Mahal. Baz Bahadur had constructed this water tank at the insistence of Rani Rupmati. But why did Rani Rupmati want a water tank to be built? Legend has it that since Rupmati was an ardent devotee of the Narmada River, one night, mother goddess Narmada appeared in her dreams and told her to build a kund/tank at the base of her palace where she could come and stay. Baz Bahadur commissioned the digging, and soon, water appeared from the ground miraculously.
The Story of a Rishi and Narmada River
There is another story of how water appeared at Rewa Kund. A sage, Rishi Markandeya, was a devotee of the Narmada River. He would go around the Narmada River but spend the four months of Chaturmas at the banks of the Narmada. Once, while in Mandu, the Chaturmas began making it impossible for him to reach the Narmada River. He was grief-stricken. Taking pity on her disciple, the Goddess Narmada appeared in his dreams and instructed him to dig at a designated place. Mother Narmada sent a tributary of her waters to this spot, and the Rewa Kund soon became a holy place where the faithful came to take a dip. The water in the Rewa Kund never dries up, even in the summers.
The love story of Baz Bhadur and Rani Roopmati, the glorious monuments, the sweeping views of the Nimar Valley, the water management systems of Rewa Kund Group of Monuments have left us amazed and awestruck. We almost feel like we have walked back in time, thanks to the engaging narrative by our guide, Javed. We finish with the Mandu Rewa Kund Group of Monuments here. Do read the next blog on the Group of Monuments between Sagar Talao and the Village here.
End of Part 1 of 5. Read Part 2 here.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: The nearest airport to Mandu is the Devi Ahiliyabai Holkar Airport in Indore, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Distances:
Mandu- Indore: 85 km or 2 hours 15 mins.
Mandu- Maheshwar: 40 km or 1 hour.
Where to stay: We stayed at the MPT Malwa by Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Guide Details: Javed Qureshi: 9669198418
Travel Tip: Wear comfortable shoes and a hat as there will be considerable walking in the sun. Carry water bottles to keep yourself hydrated. You will need 2 days at least to explore Mandu so do plan your trip well.