The Sagar Talao, or Sagar Lake, is the largest lake in Mandu. It is close to the MPT Malwa Resort, which the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation runs. We stayed at a cottage facing the lake on the same property. The monuments near the lake are called the Sagar Talao Group of Monuments. Malik Mughith’s Mosque, Caravan Sarai, Dai ki Chhoti Behen ka Mahal and Dai ka Mahal are the important monuments that constitute this group. My husband, Rafiq had seen these monuments on his early morning walk around the lake and had shared pictures. Most guides will not include these monuments in their itinerary. They will only show you the three main groups of monuments. So, you will have to explore this group on your own. Read on to know how we went about exploring the Mandu Sagar Talao Group of Monuments.
Sagar Talao/Lake @Rafiq Somani
We are tired after exploring the other group of monuments, and our energy levels are dipping. But since these monuments are close to our hotel, we decide to explore them. In addition, these monuments are within walking distance of each other. We enter an enclosure where these monuments are located. No entry fees are needed. We are the only tourists and are surprised that there are no security guards.
Malik Mughith’s Mosque
The first monument we see is Malik Mughith’s Mosque. The mosque gets its name after the person who constructed it in 1432. It is a ground plus one structure. A series of rooms open into arches on the ground with a flight of stairs in the middle. We climb steps leading to a porch. We can see a plinth with Arabic inscriptions on the mosque’s entrance doorway. Traces of blue can be seen on the tiles used on the façade above the inscription. Geometrical patterns that form flowers, typical of Islamic architecture, are evident. The pillars, which form an arch at the top, indicate that they supported a dome that crumbled and gave way over a while. The porch is now open to the sky.
We enter the mosque and find ourselves in a courtyard with lush green grass. In front of us is a corridor with columns. On top are three identical domes. The engravings on the pillars are very Indian in style. The mosque is thus a fusion of Indo-Islamic architecture. A pre-wedding photo shoot is in progress, and loud music is playing. The couple dance as the photographers and cameramen instruct them to pose and follow the dance steps.
Caravan Sarai
Close to the mosque is the Caravan Sarai, where travellers would rest and spend a night or two. We enter the Caravan Sarai through an arch-shaped gateway and find ourselves in a lush green courtyard. There are a series of rooms on all four sides of the courtyard. The Caravan Serai is inspired by European equivalents. The only difference is that the latter had doors and windows while the former were open on either side for air circulation. It is a strange coincidence that here, too, a pre-wedding photoshoot is in progress with loud music.
Dai ki Choti Bahen ka Mahal
We exit the Caravan Sarai and walk further to see a monument called Dai ki Choti Behan ka Mahal. When translated into English, it means the ‘Wet Nurse’s Younger Sister’s Palace’. The signage at the entrance tells us that it is not a palace but a tomb or mausoleum of the wet nurse’s sister. It is a ground plus one structure. There are a series of rooms on the ground floor with arched openings. We climb a flight of stairs and reach the top. The mausoleum is octagonal in shape and has a dome. The façade of the mausoleum has circular discs and arched niches. There is a hint of blue tiles on the dome.
Lal Bagh
From the top of Dai Ki Choto Behan ka Mahal, we can see Lal Bagh. It is a Mughal-style garden demarcated with water channels.
Dai ka Mahal
We walk further and come to another structure called Dai Ka Mahal or the ‘Wet Nurse’s Palace’. This, too, is not a place but a tomb. The wet nurse and her sister seemed to have adjacent tombs made for each other. But who did the Dai nurse from the royal family is not clear. This, too, is a ground plus one structure. There are a series of rooms on the ground floor with arched openings. We can see a jharokha/balcony overlooking the staircase. There are a series of rooms on the ground floor with arched openings. Unlike the earlier sister’s tomb, this structure has three domes. Nowhere in the course of our travel have we come across a monument built especially for a wet nurse. This monument is testimony to the importance a dai/wet nurse had to the royal family.
We climb the stairs and come to the top. The mausoleum is square with a dome. Close by is a larger structure- (a mosque, perhaps) with twin domes on either end. There are a series of arches on the wall. But parts of the roof have caved in, and the structure is open to the sky.
Echo Point
We see another monument opposite the Dai ka Mahal, which we later learned is the Echo Point. It’s a ground plus one structure. The lower level has a series of arches leading to rooms, perhaps. On the top is a dome-shaped structure. We didn’t know how to access the monument as there was no signage. It is called Echo Point because of the echo you hear when you say something facing the monument.
There is an interesting incident about this monument dating back to 1952. Jawaharlal Nehru, the then Prime Minister of India, along with Sheikh Abdullah, had come to visit Mandu. Vishwanath Sharma, an eminent historian, had accompanied them too. When Sharma shouted at the Echo Point, “Is Kashmir Pakistan’s or India’s?” the duo heard the echo “India’s.” The duo were unaware that only the last word of a sentence is echoed!
We head back to the exit of the enclosure. We can still hear the loud music of the pre-wedding shoots. The couples continue dancing and posing. That brings us to the end of our Mandu exploration.
We didn’t have the time to explore several other monuments around Mandu. The Loni Caves, Neelkanth Temple, the Gates of Mandu Fort, and ruins of other structures.
Chappan Mahal
On our way to Maheshwar, we stopped at the Chappan Mahal. It is made with red sandstone and is a royal officer’s tomb. It now houses a museum that showcases tribal and historical artefacts of this region. There are four galleries: Mandapika, Aranyika, Poorvika and Drishyika.
Gallery inside Chappan Mahal @Rafiq Somani
Artefacts and Tribal Paintings in Chappan Mahal @Rafiq Somani
How to best see Mandu?
If you plan to visit the length and breadth of Mandu, then you will need at least two days. You can begin with the Rewa Kund Group of Monuments, then the Sagar Talao Group of Monuments, followed by the Group between Sagar Talao and the Village, then the Group near Mandu Village and finally The Royal Enclosure. You can even explore the other way around.
If you are short on time, visit these three monument groups: Royal Enclosure, Village Group, and Rewa Kund Group.
Will Mandu get a UNESCO World Heritage Site Tag?
Mandu is on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage List. Since we like to explore UNESCO World Heritage Sites and were impressed by Mandu, we have a gut feeling that it’s a matter of time before Mandu is conferred a UNESCO World Heritage Tag. With its majestic monuments, architecture, and design, Mandu will sweep you off your feet. The use of rainwater harvesting and sound acoustics techniques without access to modern technology, so many centuries back was way ahead of its time. Mandu is a hidden gem of Madhya Pradesh waiting to be explored. While most visitors to Madhya Pradesh will head to Khajuraho, Bhimbetka, Sanchi and the national parks do set aside a couple of days for Mandu and you will be suitably rewarded. That concludes our Mandu Series. Hope you enjoyed reading it as much as we enjoyed curating it for you.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: The nearest airport to Mandu is the Devi Ahiliyabai Holkar Airport in Indore, with connectivity to major cities in India.
Distances:
Mandu- Indore: 85km or 2 hours 15 mins.
Mandu- Maheshwar: 40km or 1 hour.
Where to stay: We stayed at the MPT Malwa by Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Guide Details: Javed Qureshi: 9669198418
Travel Tip: Wear comfortable shoes and a hat as there will be considerable walking in the sun. Carry water bottles to keep yourself hydrated. You will need at least two days to explore Mandu, so plan your trip well.