Against the vast arid desert of Kutch what catches your attention is the splash of colours worn by the nomads and tribals. The handicraft villages of Kutch have a treasure trove of attractions with myriad colours, textures and ornamentation. They are a must-visit for culture and art connoisseurs. They are steeped in history that dates to the Indus Valley Civilization. These traditional handcrafted products are not just great collectables, but provide a glimpse of the region’s rich culture and topography. Set off on a handicraft trail to explore the best of Kutch handicrafts. Witness the making of these diverse art forms as artisans painstakingly demonstrate their craft.
SUMRASAR where ‘Stitches Speak’
At the heart of this village is Kala Raksha a social enterprise that is engaged in hand embroidery preservation. After the 2001 earthquake that ravaged Kutch, the tribal women made applique narratives as a medium of self-expression and a source of livelihood. Women don’t trace patterns on fabric but count the warp and weft. They use their imagination to embroider intricate patterns on sarees, dupattas, stoles and other items. Each piece is a unique work of art whether Suff, Khaarek, Paako, Rabari or Mutava. They take weeks to months to complete. Do visit their museum where more than 40 types of embroidery styles have been painstakingly researched and catalogued. Not just from Kutch in India but from neighbouring countries like Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan. They also have an outlet where you can pick exclusive products. Traditional embroidery has been contemporized to suit modern sensibilities and taste.
NIRONA which has a White House connection
Rogan Art
This village is known for its Rogan Art, copper bells and lacquer making. The walls of the White House have a Rogan art painting which was gifted to former U.S. President Barack Obama by Prime Minister Narendra Modi. Gafoorbhai Khatri and his family have been instrumental in safeguarding this 300-year-old art form. It frequently features peacocks, floral motifs and Tree of Life. A Khatri family member will gladly demonstrate this art. Mixing castor oil and natural dyes a metal stick, instead of a paintbrush, is used to make intricate designs and patterns on fabric.
Copper Bells
If you want to see pieces of scrap metal being transformed into bells which chime to the tunes of Sa Re Ga Ma, then do visit an artisan’s workshop from the Lohar community here. Traditionally herders tied these bells around the necks of cattle to keep track of them. Now they have been ingeniously used to make wind chimes, artefacts, doorbells and even keychains.
Lacquer Ware
The Vadha Community of Norana uses lac or lacquer, obtained from an insect resin, to adorn the kitchenware like spoons, spatulas, rolling pins. Heat is generated due to the hand turning of a lathe. It melts the lacquer on wooden products creating psychedelic designs or patterns. Tribal women sell dolls made with rags of leftover embroidered fabric, tribal jewellery and other knick-knacks here.
BHIRANDIYARA for the Tropic of Cancer
This village is known for its mava, a concentered milk product, which is used to make Indian sweets or mithais. The Tropic of Cancer passes near this village so do stop for a photo opportunity. Step into the architectural marvels of Bhungas, traditional circular homes with thatched roofs. Despite the blazing summer you will find them cool and refreshing. Watch the artisans create magic with thread and needle. Pick and choose from a potpourri of embroidered garments, bandhani dupattas, patchwork quilts, footwear, bags and other gewgaws.
LUDIYA or GANDHI NU GAM for a mélange of handicrafts
Dressed in the colourful attire of ghagra and mirror work kanjari blouses the women from the Meghwal community will welcome you. They will take you to their bhungas and cajole you to buy their wares. The village ‘otalo’ or square is where they assemble. They sell a mix of embroidered garments, tribal jewellery, woollen shawls, woodwork and other paraphernalia.
KHAVDA VILLAGE for embroidery and applique work
It is home to Qasab, an NGO known for its exquisite hand embroidery and patchwork products like handmade dolls, handbags, fashion accessories. Traditional embroidery designs have been given a contemporary twist in terms of the patterns, choice of colours and style to suit the urban palette. The prices are steep, but they have an exclusive collection to die for.
AJRAKHPUR for hand block printed fabrics
TheAjrakh block printing, came to Kutch from across the border more than 400 years ago. It is believed to date back to the Indus Valley civilization. Made using natural colours derived from indigo, henna, turmeric, pomegranate, iron and mud. It takes 16 different processes to make this highly-skilled, gorgeous fabric. Do visit Ismail Khatri’s workshop where you can witness the block printing process. Pick some Ajrakh stoles, dupattas and mufflers which have even featured on the catwalks during fashion weeks. Shrujan Trust runs the Living and Learning Design Centre (LLDC) comprising of museums, studios and a hands-on gallery.
KUKMA VILLAGE where artisans spin wheels of magic
Khamir, a not-for-profit organization, provides a platform for promoting and conversing the rich crafts of Kutch. Be it the bandhani tie and die, pottery, block-printing, kala cotton or recycled plastic products is a must-visit here. Chat with Rabari women as they clean the kala cotton, native to Kutch, and spin it into yarns on a charkha. Watch plastic bags being recycled and woven on pit looms to make fancy mats, bags and other products. Do pick the kala cotton products here as they are genuine and not readily available elsewhere.
BHUJODI the Delhi Haat of Kutch.
Located 8 km from Bhuj this village is a favourite of tourists, as well as locals. The shops here, sell handcrafted items at cheaper rates compared to Bhuj. During the Navratri festival, people come from Ahmedabad, Rajkot and other neighbouring cities. They shop for chaniya cholis, kedias and other stuff. Ahead of Bhujodi is the Hira Laxmi Park. A platform has been provided for the artisans to showcase their wares. If you don’t have the time to visit all the handicraft villages then this is your one-stop village to see a kaleidoscope of the several craft forms. The Shrujan store near Bhujodi has an impressive collection of hand-embroidered sarees, stoles, dupattas and other trendy outfits.
This article was first published on http://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2019/12/