Nestled in the Garhwal Hills of Mussoorie is the Benog Mountain Quail Wildlife Sanctuary. It is home to some very colourful Himalayan birds, including Red Billed Blue Magpie, Long-tailed Broadbill, Blue-throated Barbet etc. If you are a nature lover, bird watcher or wildlife enthusiast, then do plan a visit to the sanctuary. Read on to learn how we went about bird watching in Benog Mountain Quail Mussoorie Wildlife Sanctuary.
Passion for Bird Watching
My husband, Rafiq, is a trained ornithologist and loves bird photography. His birdwatching passion was sparked on an earlier trip to Binsar in Uttarakhand over a decade ago. Rafiq and my son had already visited the park a day earlier. They had been mesmerized by what they had experienced. What caught my attention were the butterfly pics my son had captured on his cell phone. Rafiq, too had managed to click pics of the rare Long-tailed Broadbill. Its feathers were a masterstroke of nature’s palette, adorned with blue, green, and yellow strokes. They convinced me not to miss the chance to visit the sanctuary the next day.
Arriving at the Sanctuary
We rise early the following day to visit the sanctuary. All prepared with his DSLR camera, Rafiq is ready and all set as we reach the entrance of the sanctuary at 7 am sharp. The driver parks our car close to the entry gate. The ‘Trees of Heaven Hostel’ is close by, painted in bright yellow and green. A welcome board made of wooden slabs indicates that the sanctuary was established in 1993 and is spread over 1081 hectares. On one of the wooden slabs, a quote is engraved, ‘The wilderness beckons the jungle ride…City’s envy trekkers pride.’ Close by is a map of the sanctuary with trail details.
Rafiq can hear the Grey winged Blackbird and Blue-throated Barbet calls. Instinctively he knows he will have a field day inside. We see a couple of Red-billed Blue-Magpie and Black Drongo flying across the small cliff towards the other side of the dense forest area.
The Forest- A thriving ecosystem
While my son and I walk on a rugged pathway on the plateau of the sanctuary, Rafiq takes a denser narrow path up the mountain. The forest has abundant trees, ferns, flowering plants and medicinal plants. Several streams flow between rocks and shrubs. Over a slope are a cluster of tall pine trees with sunlight trickling through them. A thriving ecosystem of numerous creatures and creations of nature is evident. No gardener or horticulturist can mimic the raw beauty of nature. It’s perfectly imperfect!
My son and I soon walk towards a meadow where some pale wildflowers bloom. It was here he had seen the butterflies the previous day. It was seeing a video of them on his cellophane that moved me. Would I be lucky to see them today, I wondered. And guess what? It was my lucky day.
Butterflies galore
I have never seen so many butterflies in one place ever. Butterflies were sucking nectar from flowers, fluttering around; some lay still on the ground, while others floated on the stream, dead or comatose. For city folks like us, we are elated when we spot a single butterfly, and here there are thousands. Capturing them on camera is usually tricky, and one needs to be quick, or they will fly off the moment you step close. But here, they didn’t mind us being around. Perhaps they knew only die-hard nature lovers would stroll in the sanctuary in the morning hours.
Nature Bath
The sanctuary exudes a sense of calm and tranquillity with its myriad flora and fauna. Being in the midst of nature, away from the hustle and bustle of city life, is soothing and rejuvenating. The peace and serenity of the forests, with the buzzing of crickets and the occasional stream tricking, is welcoming. It is as if we have taken a nature bath, and all our worries have been washed away. I feel blessed to experience this magical moment with my son. We speak little, as words will not be able to articulate what we experience or only destroy the joy we are experiencing.
Birds aplenty
It has been almost two hours since we entered the sanctuary. Rafiq is happy to have captured some unique birds with his camera. He excitedly shares that he has managed to capture some fantastic birds.
Rafiq explained that as soon as he had started his trek, he was greeted with a long, piercing whistling call of Blue Whistling Thrush. This dark purple bird with a yellow bill was perched on an overhanging branch near a stream. He later spotted an olive-brown female Grey-winged Blackbird silently still on the ground. It is a shy bird known for its rich, melodic song.
As he had treaded along the trail, the cheerful laughter of a mutation of White-throated Laughing thrushes had greeted him. These birds are a close-knit group of storytellers. He was lucky to have spotted a trio of woodpeckers – the Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, the Lesser Yellow nape Woodpecker, and the Greater Yellow nape Woodpecker. They had orchestrated a percussive symphony for him, with their beaks drumming against tree trunks.
Birds Everywhere
On pressing onward, he had heard the confident call of the Gray Treepie, a bird with sleek brown feathers. Its gaze was sharp and penetrating as if it held the forest’s secrets within its beady eyes. Nature’s sonata had continued to play as the enchanting notes of the Blue Whistling-Thrush reverberated through the woods.
Rafiq continued showing us the bird pics and sharing details, a Red-billed Blue-Magpie with electric blue plumage, a Rose-ringed Parakeet and Ashy Drongo with its long, bifid tail. The sanctuary had surprised him with a pair of barbets with vivid colours – the Blue-throated Barbet and the Great Barbet.
Rafiq is happy to have had the opportunity to visit the sanctuary twice and spot some unique birds. My son and I have spent some quiet moments together contemplating and reflecting on our lives, finding solace in nature and are filled with a renewed sense of zest and energy. It is time for us to bid goodbye to the sanctuary.
We didn’t spot any animals during our visit, but the sanctuary is home to Himalayan goats, spotted deer, bears, etc. The Mountain Quail from which the wildlife sanctuary gets its name is feared to be extinct and was last spotted in 1876!
More bird sightings at our resort
Not content with his sightings at the sanctuary, Rafiq continues his bird watching at the resort where we are staying- JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove Resort & Spa. With its lush green surroundings, the property is home to some commonly seen Indian birds.
The Purple Sunbird appears as its feathers shimmer like a miniature rainbow. Amongst the trees, Plum-headed Parakeets take centre stage. The male’s regal purple crown glows in the sunlight, a jewel amid the greenery. The tiny Indian White-eye briefly appears, as do the Barn Swallow and the Himalayan Bulbul.
A sudden dive through the air catches his attention – the Green Bee-eater, a skilled hunter, is pursuing its prey. Since the resort has many flowering plants, the bees are plenty. The rhythmic metallic calls of the Coppersmith Barbet resonate through the air.
The gentle cooing of the Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon fills the air, and a little later, the calls of the Brown-headed Barbet. The Brahminy Starling and Indian Golden Oriole are other guests he spots on the resort premises.
Bird watching-An exercise in patience
You will read many reviews on the net saying the sanctuary is ‘boring’ or nothing much can be spotted. So, if you are someone who likes fast-paced life and instant gratification, then this trip is not for you. Bird watching requires a lot of patience, a discerning eye and an element of luck. Don’t expect birds to pose for you like in the National Geographic Chanel films. Some days you might see a handful of common birds, but on other days, just one unique bird you have never seen can lift your spirits. The idea is to surrender to nature and experience what it offers.
GETTING THERE-
Nearest Airport: Dehradun, 60 km away, is the nearest airport to Benog Mountain Quail Mussoorie Wildlife Sanctuary, with limited flights. The other option is Chandigarh which is 126 km away, or Delhi Airport, 307 km away.
Distances:
Dehradun to Benog Mountain Quail Mussoorie Wildlife Sanctuary: 37 km or 1 hour 30 minutes.
Where to Stay: We stayed at the JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove Resort & Spa. There are several options available depending on comfort and budget. You can do a net search.
Best Time to Visit Benog Mountain Quail Mussoorie Wildlife Sanctuary: The sanctuary is open year-round, with the best time of the year being April to November.
Timings of Benog Mountain Quail Mussoorie Wildlife Sanctuary: 7:00 am to 5:00 pm throughout the week.
Travel Tip: Early mornings are the best time for birdwatching. Do carry a pair of binoculars. Do seek the help of a guide or a trained ornithologist to explore the sanctuary.