Ever since we moved to Canada, we’ve made it a point to explore the different provinces and discover the unique character each one has to offer. My husband, Rafiq, suggested we visit St. John’s in Newfoundland and Labrador. He showed me pictures of the colourful Jellybean Row houses, Atlantic puffins, and shared interesting titbits about St. John’s. St. John’s, in Newfoundland and Labrador, is closer to Ireland than it is to Vancouver! And I didn’t need much convincing. This trip felt like the perfect chance to experience the eastern edge of North America, where history, colour, and rugged natural beauty come together. Read on to know how we went about exploring and the things to see and do at St John’s, Newfoundland.
Day 1
Signal Hill National Historic Site and Cabot Tower
A three-hour flight from Toronto lands us at St. John’s airport. We pick up our rented car and drive to our hotel where we check into our room, freshen up, and head to Signal Hill. We drive past Johnson Geo Centre, making a note to visit later, and head to Signal Hill. It’s windy as we step out of the car and are greeted by the sights of St. John’s city on one side and sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean on the other. The Cabot Tower, in a Gothic architectural style, is on Signal Hill. It was constructed in 1898 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of John Cabot’s landing in Newfoundland. It was near the tower that Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless signal in 1901, which is why it’s called Signal Hill.
There are several trails around Signal Hill. We can also see the lighthouse on Fort Amherst. (More on it later.) While I decide to sit and gaze at the sea, Rafiq chooses to go on a short trek. He sees the guns/cannons of Queen’s Battery to prevent ships from entering the harbour. I spot a pole with numerous arrows pointing in various directions, along with the names of cities and distances from St. John’s. I smile as I read ‘New Delhi, India 10,180km’ for obvious reasons.
We see families strolling along the various treks, and Rafiq returns with an interesting rock in his hand. It has layers of vivid colours due to weathering and transformation through different geological periods. Signal Hill rocks are older than dinosaurs, and many tourists like picking up rocks as souvenirs. You can even take them to the Johnson Geo Centre and ask the experts to identify them for you.
Quidi Vidi Village
After visiting Signal Hill, we head to Quidi Vidi, a quaint fishing village. The streets here are narrow, and we park in one of the by-lanes and walk to the village. If you want, you can take a hike along Ladies Lookout Trail from Signal Hill and head to Quidi Vidi.
Small fishing boats, colourful houses, and an installation of a fish skeleton greet our eyes. The Quidi Vidi brewery is well known here, and we head there thinking we will grab dinner. Unfortunately, it will close in half an hour, so no food orders are being taken. We settle for some beverages and sip on them, enjoying the music. The Iceberg Beer here is sought after. We head back to our hotel and retire for the day.
Day 2
Sunrise at Signal Hill
The sun is about to rise, and Rafiq cajoles me to get out of bed so we can catch the sunrise. I groan that I am sleepy and tired, but then this is an event not to be missed, watching a sunrise from the easternmost province of Canada. While the easternmost spot to watch a sunrise is Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site, we settle for Signal Hill. Rafiq drives fast as we just about make it in time for the sunrise. It heralds a new day, new beginnings and new possibilities. A local woman bundled up in a shawl watches the sunrise in a meditative state. There is something about sunrises and sunsets that is so soul-stirring, making one contemplate life and its journey.
Puffin and Whale Watching Tour
We head back to the hotel, eat breakfast, and spend the morning working. But in the afternoon, we have booked ourselves for a ‘Puffin and Whale Watching Boat Ride’. We drive to the harbour, show our reservation bookings and hop on the boat. The upper deck is best for viewing and is where all the fun is. The tour guide sings and shares interesting titbits about St. John’s history, including fishing, icebergs, puffins, and whales.
Puffins and Birds Everywhere
We soon spot lots of puffins and other aquatic birds. Some are basking in the sun, while others swim, glide, and flutter around. Rafiq is having a field day clicking pics of puffins we don’t get to see in India. It’s noisy, and I almost feel like the birds are saying, ‘Look, humans are here. They are watching us.’ It’s just a shift in perspective. We humans think we are superior, and so are the observers, not realising that we could be the object under scrutiny! But what if the observer and the observed are one? That’s another perspective!
We say goodbye to the puffins and aquatic birds, and the boat drives further into the ocean to try our luck with whale watching. We are lucky and spot a couple of them as they puff and spout water. It reminds us of our boat ride on Chilika Lake in Odisha, where we had spotted dolphins.
Newfoundland Screech-In
Next, the tour guide announces that if anyone is interested in becoming a honorary citizen of Newfoundland, they should please line up. A couple of enthusiastic tourists line up. They are asked to kiss a puffin soft toy, have a drink and repeat a few lines of a speech. They are soon awarded certificates claiming they are Newfoundlanders, as we all clap and cheer for them.
We head back to the shore and decide to eat dinner at a nearby restaurant before heading to our hotel.
Day 3
Cape Spear Lighthouse
The most easterly point of not just Canada but North America is Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site. It is very popular among tourists, as they head to it at the crack of dawn to witness the first sunrise in North America. We wander along the walking trails as the wind roars, and I am thankful we have our jackets on. This spot has some of the best views of the Atlantic Ocean, and if you’re lucky, you will spot whales too in the summer, as we did. We are told that in spring, one can even spot icebergs drifting across the ocean from here.
There are two lighthouses here and a WWII defence battery. I am happy sitting on the hill near the lighthouse, gazing out at the sea, as Rafiq gets busy trying to take pictures of some whales he has spotted. Make sure to check the weather forecast when you visit the Cape Spear Lighthouse. A sunny day ensures you get the best views and are not disappointed.
Petty Harbour
We head back to our car and drive past Petty Harbour, which is a small fishing village. It reminds us of Quidi Vidi village, which we had visited earlier. There is a zipline and a tiny aquarium here. We stop briefly, take some pictures, and continue to drive to St. John’s Downtown, which we plan to explore.
Exploring St. John’s Downtown
George Street
We park our car and decide to explore Downtown St. John’s, spotting a colourful mural by Mary Browns. We stroll through George Street, which is the entertainment district of St. John’s. By night, it becomes a pedestrian-only street as visitors flock to the numerous pubs, bars and restaurants. Although it is daytime, we can hear music playing and get a fair sense of what the street must be like at night.
Heritage Buildings
We next see several heritage buildings, including St. John’s Courthouse, Union Bank, the Old Provincial Museum and now the Employment Centre.
St. John’s Churches
Next, we see the Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, built in Gothic architectural style. We wander around the premises since the cathedral is closed. We continue walking and see another church made of red bricks, called Grower Street United Church.
St. John’s Jelly Bean Row Houses
Why is St. John’s called the most colourful city in Canada? No prizes for guessing. It’s the colourful jellybean row houses that you see in St. John’s which give the city a distinct vibe and charm. Not just the homes, even the mailboxes here are in the shape of miniature jellybean rowhouses. We continue strolling along Grower Street and see several jelly bean row houses.
But why were the houses painted in jelly bean colours? We hear two reasons. One was that in the gloomy winter months, a burst of colours would boost the mood of the locals. The second was that when the sailors and fishermen returned, it helped them find their home through foggy weather conditions. Whatever the reason, these jellybean row houses have become a symbol of St. John’s. You will see several streets lined with them, but if you’re looking for a hot spot, then head to Grower Street.
Day 4
Puffin Watching in Elliston
The next day, my husband, Rafiq, an avid birdwatcher, decides to go in search of Puffins in Elliston, a 3-hour drive away. I am busy with work, so I’ll skip it. Elliston is also known as the “Puffin Capital of North America,” as it offers the opportunity to see these charming seabirds up close. Puffins, often called the ‘jokers of the sea’ for their colourful beaks and playful antics, are charming symbols of Newfoundland’s coastal beauty. He spends a good 2 hours watching puffins up close and is happy that he has got some food pictures. En route, he also visits the Cape Bonavista lighthouse.
Fort Amherst
Once Rafiq returns from his puffin-watching tour, we decide to explore Fort Amherst, which we had seen from Signal Hill and also from our hotel room window. We drive up a hill, park, and then walk, expecting to see a fort. However, the ramparts are no longer visible, but we see a lighthouse and spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean. We can see the Cabot Tower on Signal Hill. We stroll along and see some gun batteries that were used in the World Wars to guard against enemy attacks. The place is peaceful and not very touristy.
Since it’s summer and the days are longer, we have the advantage of daylight and decide to explore Bowring Park.
Bowring Park
The 200-acre park has several walking trails, statues, play areas and a pond. Families with children and pets are taking a walk and spending the day at the park. We walk through the park and spend some time near the pond watching the ducks swim. You can spend more time exploring the park, but we chose to head back to St. John’s Downtown.
Harbourside Park
Back in Downtown, we decide to explore the Harbourside Park, which, as the name suggests, is alongside the harbour. Several historical events occurred at the harbourside park, including Sir Humphrey Gilbert’s claim to Newfoundland for Elizabeth I and the laying of the groundwork for the British Empire. There are several plaques on Newfoundland history in the park.
National War Memorial
From Harbourside Park, we can see the National War Memorial, which was built in 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert claimed Newfoundland for England.
Terry Fox Memorial
St. John’s has another memorial dedicated to Terry Fox. Despite losing his right leg to cancer, it was from this place that Terry Fox began his Marathon of Hope on April 12, 1980. He ran across Canada to create awareness of cancer and collect funds for cancer research. He dipped his prosthetic leg in the water of the Atlantic Ocean and began his run. We head back to our hotel and call it a day.
Day 5
Since it’s our last day in St. John’s and we have an evening flight, we decide to explore the Johnson Geo Centre and Rooms Museum.
Johnson Geo Centre
If you are a fan of geology and love rocks, then you will be impressed by the Johnson Geo Centre. It is located at the base of Signal Hill, and we had made a note to visit, time permitting. In fact, part of Signal Hill rocks are the walls of the Johnson Geo Centre!
We begin our trip with a movie that explains Earth’s geology, complete with special effects of sound, imagery, and even lightning and rain. The centre has various interactive displays and exhibits, making it a truly immersive experience. Our school geography lessons came alive when we studied different types of rocks, continental tectonic shifts, and so much more. We spend almost two hours moving from one gallery to the next and are awed and amazed by all that we see and learn. If you have school-going kids, be sure to visit the Johnson Geo Centre.
The Rooms
We then head to The Rooms, which features a museum, art gallery, and archives. Its structure of bold glass and steel design is reminiscent of traditional Newfoundland’ fishing rooms.’ We purchase entry tickets from Level 1 and start exploring each floor. The Museum section is fascinating: deeply moving exhibits on Newfoundland’s role in WWI. Reading letters from young soldiers who never made it back, families who lost loved ones to war brought a lump to my throat. When will we humans learn to live in peace and harmony? History repeats itself to remind us how little we humans have learnt about the pain and misery war and bloodshed bring.
Natural and cultural history displays of wildlife, indigenous cultures, fishing traditions, and local ecosystems are what we visit next—a giant squid specimen, 500-million-year-old fossils and lots more. A class of school children is on a field trip to The Rooms and is busy trying their hands at the interactive exhibits.
Art Gallery
Some exhibits explore the stories, cultures, and histories of Indigenous peoples. We wander through the art gallery where the works of several artists are on display. Billy Gauthier’s ‘The Earth, Our Mother,’ carved from a whale skull, is mind-blowing. As is the exhibit ‘How do I Look?’ on ways of understanding art.
Observation Deck and Cafe
But my personal favourite space at the Rooms is the observation deck, whose glass windows provide panoramic views of St. John’s city and harbour. A plaque near the glass façade marks the famous buildings and structures, and we try to spot them from the glass. If you have the time, consider enjoying a coffee or meal with a view at the café. On the way out, we stop by the gift store, which features a selection of lovely knick-knacks and souvenirs. You can actually spend a day at the Rooms just learning about history and culture, soaking in the views or admiring and appreciating the artwork. Kids will love it too.
Other Attractions at St. John’s, Newfoundland
It’s time for us to head to the airport for our flight. However, if you have the time, consider visiting the St. John’s Farmers’ Market, held on Saturdays, where you can shop for local produce and crafts. You can also go hiking on the East Coast Trail, which spans the scenic coast and passes through fishing villages. And if you want to be a Newfoundlander, then kiss a cod and have a shot of Screech rum.
Final Words on St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador
Don’t just visit St. John’s because it’s the easternmost city of Canada. There is so much history, culture and natural beauty that it exudes. The colourful jelly bean rowhouses, the scenic vistas of the seascape, the exhibits at Johnson Geo Centre and The Rooms will leave you impressed. We loved the Puffin and whale watching tour, the warm people, and the unhurried pace of St. John’s, away from the hustle and bustle of big cities. Also, the locals in St. John’s, Newfoundland, are warm and friendly, always beaming with a smile, sharing a story, and genuinely welcoming visitors. So, when are you planning to visit St. John’s?
GETTING THERE:
Nearest Airport to St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador:
St. John’s International Airport is the nearest with connectivity to other cities in Canada.
Where to Stay in St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador:
We stayed at the Sheraton in downtown St. John’s. Staying in Downtown ensured that we could walk down to most of the attractions in 15-20 minutes. You can do a net search for accommodation based on budget and comfort.
St. John’s Travel Tips:
What is the best time of year to visit St. John’s, Newfoundland?
June to September is the best time to visit St. John’s, Newfoundland. Summers are also the best time for iceberg and whale watching. Numerous events and festivals are lined up during this time.
What is the best time of year to see icebergs in St. John’s, Newfoundland?
May and the beginning of June are the months when you are most likely to see icebergs that drift from Greenland. We visited in mid-June and missed viewing the icebergs by a couple of weeks.
What is the best time of year to see whales in St. John’s, Newfoundland?
May to September is the best time for whale watching in St. John’s, Newfoundland. Do sign up for a whale watching tour. We saw whales for approximately 20-30 minutes during a whale-watching tour in mid-June.
What is the best time of year to see puffins in St. John’s, Newfoundland?
From early May to mid September is the best time of year for watching puffins in St. John’s, Newfoundland. We signed up for a puffin watching tour in mid-June and saw thousands of puffins and other aquatic birds.