If you grew up reading fairy tales and the fairyland of lofty castles, opulent palaces, and secret passages captivated you, then Sintra should be on your must-visit list. This delightful town on the hills of Serra de Sintra is a 40-minute train ride from Lisbon in Portugal. The rich and noble Portuguese used it as a summer retreat to escape to the hills with cooler climate. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is an ideal one- or two-day mountain retreat to a fantasy land where you can drift into a bygone era. I could imagine Rapunzel with her long tresses waiting for her prince charming at a tower or a Knight in shining armour rescuing a damsel in distress through secret underground passages. It’s like your fairy tales and dreams coming to life, and you are now a part of them. Read on to know how we went about exploring Sintra.
Arriving in Sintra
A 40-minute train ride from Rossio Train Station in Lisbon has brought us to Sintra station. It’s the last stop, and all passengers alight from the train. We exit the train station and follow the crowds which are walking uphill.
Sintra Town Hall
We pass an impressive castle-like structure, which is the Sintra Town Hall/ Câmara Municipal de Sintra, built in 1909. The Town Hall serves as the administrative center for Sintra, where local government offices are housed. The creamy white building has a tall spire crowned with a golden sphere and surrounded by four smaller spires. The Manueline windows and balcony with arches make this building pop out of fables.
Volta Douche Road
We leave the town hall and walk along a winding uphill road called Volta Douche Road; we see an array of artisans selling handcrafted items like macrame and brass jewellery, paintings, and artwork. I jump with joy as I am also a macrame and brass jewellery artist, and I spot some similar designs and patterns. The road has art installations like a funky chair; everyone is trying to sit on it, pose, and click pictures. We can see the twin cones of the National Palace of Sintra as we approach the city centre.
Bohemian and Macrame Jewellery @Rafiq Somani
434 Bus Ride
Having reached close to the city centre, we realise that going to Pena Palace would require considerable uphill walking. We are told that tuk-tuks or a bus ride on 434 is the best option to commute within Sintra. Just then, bus 434 arrives at the bus stop near the city centre and we hop on to the bus. The 434 hop-on, hop-off bus follows a continuous route around the key attractions of Sintra, beginning at the train station and stopping at significant landmarks such as the historic centre (home to the National Palace), Castle of the Moors, and Pena Palace, before looping back to the station.
Pena Palace Tickets
We get off the Pena Palace, and the place is buzzing with tourists standing in queues to enter. We head to the ticket window and are told there are two ticket types. One is a ‘Time Slot Ticket’, which allows you a 30-minute window to see the Pena Palace from inside and the park. The other is the ‘Park Ticket’, which gives you access to the Palace Park and the Palace’s terraces. We want to visit inside the Palace, but the next available time slot ticket would require us to wait for at least two hours and settle for the Park Ticket. Since we have a Lisboa Card, we get a 10% discount on the tickets.
Transfer Bus to Pena Palace
We enter the Palace complex and there is a queue for a transfer bus that takes you from the entrance to the Palace on top of the hill. The other option is to walk uphill, which will take 15-25 minutes. We decide to take the bus ride, for which we shell out 3 Euros/each. We catch a glimpse of the gardens and park and soon reach the Pena Palace.
Pena Palace
The Pena Palace was originally the site of the Hieronymite Monastery of Our Lady of Pena, which was destroyed in the Lison earthquake in 1755. King Ferdinand, in 1838, then took up the task of converting it into a palace for the Portuguese royal family. At 500 metres above sea level, the Palace is a fusion of Moorish, Gothic, Renaissance and Manueline architecture. The Pena Palace, with vibrant colours of red, yellow and blue-grey, is the most colourful Palace in Sintra. Intricate stonework decorative tiles accentuate its unique style. Crenellated towers, elegant turrets, and terraces with panoramic views of the surrounding landscape make it a picturesque structure. The entrance to the terraces is guarded by a statue of the Greek sea god Triton with an upper human torso and lower body like fish tails.
Chapel of Pena Palace
Do not miss the Chapel of Pena Palace with beautiful stained-glass windows. One of them, which has four panels, features the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus, St. George, patron saint of Portugal, Prince Henry the Navigator, and Vasco de Gama! The altar carved from alabaster and marble depicted scenes from the life of Jesus Christ.
History of the Castle of Moors
We take the transfer bus back to the entrance of Pena Palace. Rather than exploring the park of Pena Palace, we decide to walk to the Moorish Castle, which is 15 minutes away. (But if you plan to spend two days in Sintra, you may want to stroll through the park.) Built during the 8th and 9th centuries during Moorish rule in the Iberian Peninsula, the castle served as a strategic defensive outpost. Its hilltop location provided commanding views of the surrounding landscape, allowing its inhabitants to monitor and defend the region against potential invaders. After the Moors were expelled from Portugal during the Christian Crusades, the castle fell into neglect and disrepair. However, in the 19th century, King Ferdinand II initiated partial restoration efforts to revive the castle’s former glory.
Exploring the Castle of Moors
Walking through the castle complex, we see signs indicating various ruins from earlier Islamic and Christian settlements. We pass silos which were used to store grain, ruins of Islamic houses, a tomb and several others. We visit the Church of Sao Pedro de Canaferrim, which houses the Castle Interpretation Centre and has items that were found during the excavations at the site. Medieval Christian Cemetery/ Medieval Islamic Quarter is eerie as we can see some skeletons and graves enclosed in a glass façade.
Silos and Ruins of Islamic Homes @Rafiq Somani
Castle Interpretation Centre @Rafiq Somani
Great Wall of Sintra
We enter the castle, whose ramparts will remind you of the Great Wall of China. The battlements and towers provide sweeping views of the surrounding landscapes. King Ferdinand II, who was also a painter, sat at the Royal Tower and is known to have found inspiration for several of his artworks here. The wind flutters the flags that are hoisted on the ramparts. Although The Great Wall of Sintra provides stunning views, it is not for the faint-hearted, and climbing and exploring can be extremely arduous.
Moors Castle Towers @Rafiq Somani
Historic Centre of Sintra
After exploring the Moorish Castle, we hop on to Bus 434, which takes us to the Historic Centre of Sintra. The Historic Centre of Sintra is characterised by its charming cobblestone streets and colourful buildings, with artisan shops, quaint cafes, and traditional restaurants. We can see the top of the Igreja de São Martinho church, the Tourist Information Centre and the unmistakable Sintra National Palace of Sintra. A singer strings on the guitar and sings as people enjoy food and drinks at the al fresco restaurants and cafes. The energy and vibrancy of the centre is infectious.
Sintra National Palace
The Sintra National Palace in the Historic Centre of Sintra was built in the 10th or 11th century when Sintra was under Moorish rule. However, it underwent significant transformations over time, particularly in the 15th century by King Joao and between the 15th and 19th century served as the residence of Portugal’s royal family. The Palace’s distinctive design reflects the various architectural influences that shaped it throughout its history. Its notable features include the iconic pair of conical chimneys rising from the kitchen, emblematic of Sintra’s skyline. We wander around the courtyard in front of the Palace, seeing panoramic views of the town and hills. We decide to skip seeing the Palace from inside as time is short, so we head to Regaleira Palace/ Quinta de Regaleira instead.
Fountains and Waterfalls
It’s a 15-minute walk to Quinta de Regaleira, and we pass a beautiful shop that sells bohemian dreamcatchers, artwork, magnets, and other souvenirs. En route, we see the Fonte dos Pisões, a fountain decorated with colourful tiles and playful cherubs. Further ahead, we see a small waterfall and natural spring called Cascata de Pisões/ Pisões Waterfall.
History of Regaleira Palace/ Quinta de Regaleira
The Viscountess of Regaleira originally owned the Quinta de Regaleira and was eventually sold to Antonio Monteiro, who orchestrated its transformation into the magnificent estate we admire today. Collaborating with architect Luigi Manini, they converted the former summer residence into a complex palace surrounded by ornate gardens.
Exploring Regaleira Palace/ Quinta de Regaleira
We enter the palace complex through a gate and purchase tickets, and again, because we have a Lisboa Card end up getting a 20% discount. We soon find ourselves wandering in the enchanting gardens with a motley of structures and attractions.
The Regaleira Tower
This tower with a spiral staircase is straight out of story books. I can visualise Rapunzel with her long tresses looking out for her prince charming here. People are climbing the tower and trying to click pics. The tower top provides sweeping views of Pena Palace and Castle of Moors.
Workshop of the Art/Services
Previously, the structure served as accommodation for estate staff, alongside a garage and a powerhouse responsible for supplying electricity to the entire property.
The Ziggurat
This is a three-stage tower on the Terrace of Celestial Worlds.
Portal of Guardians
This remarkable structure has towers at each end, connected by a curved pathway, with a lookout point at the centre. It is designed in such a way that it can be used as an amphitheatre for performances with ample seating space for audiences. At the bottom is a basin and fountain embellished with guardian sculptures – two Tritons encircling a conch shell. So much symbolism and mysticism surrounds these sculptures, which only an expert could reveal.
Initiation well
A picture of this well drew me to Quinta da Regaleira since we had seen similar step wells in Gujarat, India, like Rani ki Vav and Adalaj ki Vav. A spiral staircase consisting of nine levels ascends down the well. The guards urge us to keep walking even as we admire the 90-foot-deep well, also referred to as an inverted tower. Water drips on my shoulders, and I cautiously walk to avoid slipping. On reaching the bottom, we notice an eight-pointed star with rose and cream stones.
What was the significance of the Initiation Well? Who and why were people initiated into a secret ritual, cult or ceremony? So many questions zipped through my mind. There seemed to be a spiritual or mystical element adding to the enigma and allure of the well. I wish we had an expert or a guide who would explain the implied and esoteric meaning and reasoning behind the purpose and structure of the well.
Subterranean Passages/Percursos Subterraneos
From the bottom of the initiation well, we walk through a network of tunnels and caves lined with fairy lights. I can almost feel like this is some sort of adventure where a knight in shining armour saves a damsel in distress as they flee from the antagonist.
The Waterfall Lake/ Lago da Cascata
We walk through the tunnels and soon find ourselves near a lake with stepping stones and a waterfall. Ducks swim in the lake. I am living a fairytale! The division between fiction and reality is non-existent.
Fountain of Regaleira /Fountain of Abundance
We pass another fountain with a beautiful backdrop.
Chapel of Holy Trinity /Capela da Santíssima Trindade
Opposite the main palace, we spot an enchanting chapel crafted from immaculate white stone, built in the Neo-Manueline architectural style. We can see some stained-glass windows, with the altar having an image of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary, and the floor has crosses in circles.
Satyr Bench
We pass an ornate bench where people are sitting and posing for selfies.
Palace of Quinta da Regaleira
It’s now time for us to explore the actual palace. The first sight of the Quinta da Regaleira, with its neo-gothic architecture, impressive octagonal tower, spires and turrets, elaborate carvings, and ornate balconies, has left me enchanted and mesmerised. It is straight out of a fairy tale. The Quinta da Regaleira Palace has five floors, but only the ground floor/Piano Nobile is open to the public. The ground floor has several rooms inspired by Manueline, Renaissance and Gothic architectural styles.
Hunting Room/Dining Room:
Through a porch, we enter the dining room with a colourful Venetian mosaic floor.
Renaissance Hall:
The former drawing room has a stunning, intricately carved wooden ceiling with chandeliers shaped like the Cross of the Order of Christ. The maroon walls with wood panelling and a white fireplace make this room a stunner.
Music Room:
It has chestnut wood ceiling and frescoes on the walls.
King’s Room:
The room was originally a billiards room, and it has 24 portraits of kings and queens of Portugal.
A balcony stretches along the entire ground floor, providing sweeping views of the surrounding gardens.
Quinta da Regaleira ended up being my favourite palace in Sintra. It was like the Disneyland for grown-ups. Not just the main palace but its enchanting gardens, with towers, secret grottos, mysterious wells, calming waterfalls and fountains make the Quinta da Regaleira the showstopper of Sintra. Coupled with the symbolism and esoteric meanings the Quinta da Regaleira is steeped in mystery and wonder. Please do not miss this palace at any cost!
We walk back to Sintra Station and pass several colourful and beautiful buildings. It is time to take a train from Sintra Station back to Lisbon. We carry fond memories and nostalgia of fairyland Sintra which we shall cherish forever.
Beautiful Sintra Buildings @Rafiq Somani
Beautiful Sintra Buildings @Rafiq Somani
Other Attractions
There are several other palaces in Sintra, like Seteais Palace, Monserrate Palace and Biesten Palace, which you may want to explore. Because of a scarcity of time, we couldn’t explore the palaces from the inside. But do plan to see the palaces from the inside, too.
Final Word
Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Portugal, is definitely worth visiting. Its scenic beauty, striking architecture and history will leave you awed and amazed. Nothing will prepare you for what you will witness. No number of words or pictures can do justice to this fairyland, and you need to see it to believe it. That’s the magic of Sintra.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Humberto Delgado Airport is the international airport of Lisbon, Portugal. From India, there are no direct flights to Lisbon. I flew from Mumbai to Abu Dhabi and then flew to Lisbon. My husband flew in directly from Toronto to Lisbon.
Travelling from Lisbon to Sintra: You can take the train from Rossio Train Station from Lisbon and get to Sintra. Trains usually run twice an hour from Rossio station to Sintra. It’s a 40-minute train ride from Lisbon to Sintra.
Travelling within Sintra: Once you get off at Sintra station, you can take a tuk-tuk or the Hop on Hop Off Bus routes 434 and 435 to explore the various palaces. The Hop on Hop Off Bus tickets cost us 13.5 Euros/each. Walking uphill can be tiring, except for the instances we walked it’s best to ride on a bus or tuk-tuk.
Where to Stay: We stayed in Lisbon and took a day trip to Sintra. But if you want to see all the palaces, spending two days in Sintra makes sense. There are lots of options available depending on budget and comfort.
Best Time to Visit Sintra: The weekends can get crowded with long queues. So, prefer a weekday.
Travel Tips: Book your timeslot tickets to the palaces well in advance to avoid disappointment. This is crucial if you want to explore the palaces from the inside. Also, factor in the time it will take you to reach from one spot in Sintra to the next as bus services are limited and there are long queues during peak times. We had taken a Lisboa Card, so we got discounts on the various palaces, and it covered public transport within Lisbon but not Sintra. Please wear comfortable walking shoes and carry water.
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A Food Trail in Lisbon
Exploring Belem, Portugal
Exploring the National Palace of Mafra, Portugal
Shopping in Lisbon