Before Jaipur it was Amer that was the capital of the Jaipur state. Perched on the Hill of Eagles (Cheel ka Teel) in Aravallis, 11 km from Jaipur, is the Amer or Amber Fort. Like the Hawa Mahal, it is the most frequented site by tourists visiting Jaipur. The Amer Fort, along with the forts in Chittorgarh, Kumbhalgarh, Sawai Madhopur, Jhalawar, and Jaisalmer, constitute the Hill Forts of Rajasthan, which has received a UNESCO World Heritage Site tag. The Amer Fort complex is an ensemble of palaces, courtyards, pavilions and gardens. The fort provides a glimpse of a bygone era when the Rajput royals ruled Amer and basked in luxury and opulence with their queens and entourages. Read on to learn how we went about exploring the Amer Fort.
Elephant Ride or Car Drive
After visiting Sanganer, we head to Amer Fort. We pass the Jal Mahal, a palace in the middle of the water, on our way to Amer. We drive further and soon see the Maota Lake with the imposing Amer Fort in the background. Do stop here and click pictures. Our driver tells us there is a stop nearby from where one can go on an elephant ride that takes you all the way to the top of the hill. Since we have a car, we decide against it. We next enter the Amer town, and guides keep chasing and stopping our car. They tell us they will show us the fort complex. We politely decline and proceed.
Panna Meena ka Kund.
En route to the fort we stop at a stepwell called Panna Meena ka Kund. The stepwells had a unique purpose that extended beyond providing water. They served as spaces where women met, chatted, vented out, shared secrets, danced, sang and rested. A series of steps create beautiful patterns as they lead to the well. One could go down the steps earlier, but now security guards will whistle if you try to do so. Here’s a spoiler: No Instagrammable pics on the steps are allowed.
We continue our drive to the top of the fort passing cobbled streets lined with locals’ homes. At the fort’s entrance, we see a musician singing a Rajasthani folk song and stringing a Ravanhattha or a traditional violin-like musical instrument. We meet our guide, Ajay Gurjar, a young lad in his twenties. He begins by telling us the history of the fort.
History of Amer
Earlier, the Meena chiefs of five different tribes controlled Amer. Subsequently, the Rajput kings took over Amer. Originally, the fort was built by Raja Man Singh in 1592. Subsequent rulers made additions and changes over 150 years. The fort lost focus in 1727 when Sawai Jai Singh II of the Kachwahas dynasty moved their capital from Amer to Jaipur.
We enter the fort and find ourselves in a large courtyard called Jaleb Chowk. It is here that the soldiers assembled and parades held on important occasions. Several tourists have assembled in the Chowk, some clicking pictures, vendors are selling souvenirs, and suddenly, there is a deafening sound. Looking up, we see jet planes soaring across the sky. It is all part of the airshow in Jaipur, and we are lucky to witness it.
Suraj Pol and Chand Pol
Two gates open into the courtyard/Jaleb Chowk. The Suraj Pol is the main entrance to the fort. It faces the east where the sun rises and hence is called Suraj Pol or Sun Gate. The Chand Pol or Moon Gate is opposite the Suraj Pol in the west. The Chandpol housed the Naqqarkhana. Musicians played the drums and other musical instruments here, announcing the royals’ arrival.
To the right of the Jaleb Chowk are stairs which lead us to the Shila Devi temple. Photography is not permitted. We then climb a flight of stairs leading to the Singh Pol gate which is covered with frescos. Through this gate, we enter the second courtyard.
Singh Pol @Rafiq Somani
Diwan-e- Aam
The courtyard has the Diwan-e-Aam, or Hall of Commons, made with red sandstone and marble. A series of ornate pillars are characteristic of the Diwan-e-Aam. It was here that the commoners got an audience with the kings.
Ganesh Pol
The Ganesh Pol is the entrance to the residence of the royals. The ornamental gate is a fusion of Rajasthani and Islamic architecture with frescos and latticework. A viewing deck, Suhag Mandir, is above the Ganesh Pol with lattice windows. Through the lattice windows, the royal women watched the proceedings in the courtyard without being seen. A painting of Lord Ganesha, the Elephant God, is the most striking feature of the gate. Flowering plants, fruit trees, wine goblets, and vases are painted on the gate façade. Everyone is eager to click a selfie with the gate backdrop.
Details of Ganesh Pol @Rafiq Somani
Diwan-e-Khaas/Sheesh Mahal
We enter the private quarters of the royals through Ganesh Pol. We find ourselves in a courtyard with a char baug/Mughal-style ornamental garden with a fountain in the centre. The Diwan-e-Khaas, or Hall of Private Audience, made with Belgium mosaic glass pieces, faces the garden. It is also called the Sheesh Mahal or Jai Mandir. Thousands of mosaic-sized glass pieces cover the walls and ceilings of the Sheesh Mahal. There is marble inlay work at the bottom of the walls. Geometrical patterns, floral designs, goblets, vases, urns and lots more cover the length and breadth of the walls and ceilings.
Details of Sheesh Mahal @Rafiq Somani
We see a locked door, and entry to the room is prohibited. But as a teen, I remember visiting the Sheesh Mahal when I had the chance to go inside the room. I recall the guide closing the door so that there was pitch darkness and lighting a candle. The light had reflected in all the mirrors, reminiscent of the song from Mughal e Azam, ‘ Jab pyaar kiya to darna kya.’ The reflection of Madhubala dancing in countless mirrors.
Palace of Raja Mansingh
We next head to the Palace of Raja Mansingh, which has the Zenana or Women’s Quarters. Our guide Gurjar tells us that the king had some 12 wives or consorts. Each had her own chambers. He points to the spot from where the emperor saw the queens. Through secret passages, he visited whichever wife he wanted to spend the night with, without the knowledge of others. No jealousy or bad vibes among the queens. The king’s bedroom is out of bound for tourists. He points to a small painting of a couple embraced in the game of love and whispers that there are such large Kamasutra-style paintings in the king’s bedroom. It, however is opened only when special dignitaries visit the palace.
Baradari
In the palace courtyard is a pillared pavilion or Baradari where the queens met.
Amer Fort Shop
We then head to the Amer Fort shop, where handcrafted decorative items, jewellery, miniature paintings, perfumes, etc., are for sale.
Views from Amer Fort
We head back to the Jaleb Chowk and go to the Suraj Pol. We can see Maota Lake and the Jaigarh Fort on the opposite hill. There are secret tunnels connecting the Amer and Jaigarh Fort, informs our guide. They served as an escape route for the royals should there be an attack by invaders.
From the Chandra Pol side, we get an aerial view of the Amer town.
Light and Sound Show
If you want to know the history of the Amer Fort, then grab a ticket for the Light and Sound Show in the evenings. The show has two versions, one in Hindi and the other in English. We saw this show on the first day of our stay in Jaipur. The narrative in Bollywood superstar Amitabh Bachchan’s voice gives an altogether different dimension to the show.
While many old structures have been either destroyed or replaced by other things Amer has stood the test of time and continues to bask in pride and glory. It is no wonder that no tourist can say they have visited Jaipur if they haven’t visited Amer.
GETTING THERE
Nearest Airport: Jaipur has an airport with connectivity to major cities in India.
Where to stay: We stayed at ITC Rajputana. You can do a net search for hotels depending on budget and comfort.
Contact of guide: Ajay Gurjar- 9799309073
Entry Fees for Amer Fort:
Amer Light and Sound Show Tickets: Rs. 250 per head. Available in Hindi and English language.
Travel Help: Rajasthan Routes and Trails helped us plan this trip to Jaipur.
Other Jaipur Blogs on ‘So Many Travel Tales’
Exploring Jaipur City Palace
Exploring Jantar Mantar Jaipur
Jaipur- A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Hawa Mahal, Jaipur
Things to Shop in Jaipur
Handicraft and Textile Trail in Jaipur